Blackened Navy Fine Wale Corduroy Wide Leg Jean - OEM

The Ren from Agolde in a deep navy corduroy, with fine vertical ribs, a high rise waist, a relaxed fit through the hips and a wide leg, listed at 300 GBP with all eight sizes in stock. There is a figure in the waist column that needs setting out first, because it is the third of its kind in this run and it is on a garment that cannot stretch. Read across the eight sizes, the waist goes 30, 32, 34, 35, 36, 38, 40 and 42 centimetres, and doubling the first of those gives 60 centimetres around, which is about 23.62 inches. The label on that size is 24. So at size 24 the waistband is about 0.38 of an inch smaller than the number on the hangtag, and the ease is negative. And the fibre panel says 100% cotton, with no elastane in it at all. This run has met negative ease twice before, both times on jersey, and has said each time that the question is whether there is anything in the cloth to account for it. Here there is nothing: no elastane, no stretch claim, no elasticated waist, and a button fly. So a size 24 customer buying to her own measurement is buying trousers that are narrower at the waistband than she is, in a cloth that will not give. And the rest of the column does not behave either: against the label sizes the ease runs about minus 0.38, 0.20, 0.77, 0.56, 0.35, 0.92, 1.50 and 2.07 inches, so it rises by about two and a half inches across the range and it does so unevenly, going up, up, down, down, up, up, up. At the smallest size the garment is smaller than its label and at the largest it is two inches bigger. And there is no fit statement of any kind on the page, no true to size, no guidance, and no model. The second thing worth setting out is the one place the page does better than most, which is the corduroy itself. The description says these have fine vertical ribs and a soft, velvety texture, so the wale is described as fine, which is real information: a fine wale cord behaves quite differently from a wide one. There is no count, which this run has now asked for on every corduroy it has met and never once received, and no weight. And it is worth being precise about the word vertical, because it looks like it answers a question this run has been asking and does not. Vertical describes which way the ribs run, and every corduroy runs its ribs along the length of the cloth. What a garment needs to specify is the nap, which is which way the pile lies, because a garment cut with the nap one way is a different colour from the same garment cut with it the other. The reference is the Ren in Corduroy Obscura. Dongguan Bafinasa Garments Co., Ltd. develops comparable corduroy and trousers on OEM and ODM terms, from cloth sourcing by wale count and weight to retail or FBA ready packing. We publish this as a development reference and build your own version of it, and we do not supply the branded original or reproduce anyone else's label.

Key Features

• Ease of about minus 0.38 in at size 24 on 100% cotton with no elastane, so the waistband is smaller than the label and the cloth will not give. See the note below
• Ease running from about minus 0.38 to about 2.07 in across the eight sizes, unevenly. See the note below
• Fine vertical ribs as stated, so the wale is described as fine, with no wale count, no nap direction and no weight. See the note below
• A rise of about 29 cm derived from the published lengths, which agrees with the high rise the page claims. See the note below
• Relaxed fit through the hips as stated, and the hip is not measured. See the note below
• Wide leg as stated, with no leg opening, no thigh and no knee measured. See the note below
• No fit statement, no fit guidance and no model, on the garment in this batch with negative ease. See the note below

Customisable Options

• Cloth: fine wale cotton corduroy to the reference, with the wale count and the weight stated, or a wide wale corduroy, or a baby cord, or a stretch corduroy, or a cotton twill, each quoted separately
• Wale: fine vertical ribs to the reference, with the wale count and the nap direction stated, or a wide wale, or a mid wale, each quoted separately
• Grade: the waist graded to hold a positive ease at every size, or graded to the reference shape, or graded to your own chart, each quoted separately
• Rise: high rise to the reference, with the rise published at every size, or a mid rise, or a low rise, each quoted separately
• Leg: wide leg to the reference, with the leg opening, thigh and knee measured, or a straight leg, or a barrel leg, or a tapered leg, each quoted separately
• Closure: button fly to the reference, with the button count and size stated, or a zip fly, or a snap closure, each quoted separately
• Wale count and cloth weight, nap direction and pile crush guidance, rise at every size, hip, thigh, knee and leg opening measurements, ease against the label at every size, ease corrected at size 24, wash process and colourfastness, button count and size, size set, colour development, private label and care labelling

Specifications

Size Chart as Published by the Reference

The waist figures are flat half measures taken with the jeans laid down, doubling to 60, 64, 68, 70, 72, 76, 80 and 84 cm around, or 23.62, 25.20, 26.77, 27.56, 28.35, 29.92, 31.50 and 33.07 in. Against the label sizes of 24 to 31 in, the ease is about minus 0.38, 0.20, 0.77, 0.56, 0.35, 0.92, 1.50 and 2.07 in, so it is negative at size 24 and rises by about 2.45 in across the range. The waist steps 2, 2, 1, 1, 2, 2 and 2 cm, which no uniform grade produces. The inseam is 81 cm and the total length is 110 cm at all eight sizes, so the rise works out at about 29 cm, or about 11.4 in.

Our Proposed Body Chart

Occasions and Styling

Suits autumn and winter and everyday dressing. A blackened navy corduroy wide leg is the trouser that works with a tank and a blazer, and the velvety cord dresses up more easily than a flat denim.

Production and Quality Control

The reference publishes three columns for all eight sizes, has all eight sizes in stock, states the fibre to the percentage, describes the wale as fine and the texture, states the rise and the leg, describes the fit through the hips, gives a two clause care instruction, names the country of production and names the style and colour codes. It gives no cloth weight, no wale count, no nap direction, no rise measurement, no hip, thigh, knee or leg opening, no button specification, no colourfastness, no size conversion, no model and no fit statement of any kind, and one of its sizes has a waistband narrower than its own label. Three things follow: the negative ease on a cloth that cannot stretch, the wale that is described but not counted, and the fit claim about an area that is not measured.

Minus zero point three eight, and that is the first thing, and it is worth setting out carefully because this run has met this twice before and has been careful both times. The waist at size 24 is 30 centimetres flat, which doubles to 60 centimetres around, which is about 23.62 inches. The label on that size is 24. So the waistband is about 0.38 of an inch narrower than the body it is labelled for, and the ease is negative. Now this run has said on both previous occasions that negative ease is not automatically a fault, because some garments are cut to be worn tight and rely on stretch to close. So the question each time has been whether there is anything in the cloth to account for it, and the answer each time has been found in the fibre panel. Here the panel says 100% cotton. No elastane. And there is no stretch claim, no elasticated waist, and the closure is a button fly. So there is nothing. A customer at size 24 measuring herself and buying her own number is buying trousers that do not close, in a woven corduroy that will not give. And it is worth adding what the rest of the column does, because the negative figure is the beginning of the problem rather than all of it. The ease runs about minus 0.38, 0.20, 0.77, 0.56, 0.35, 0.92, 1.50 and 2.07 inches. So it climbs by about two and a half inches from the smallest to the largest, and it climbs unevenly: up, up, down, down, up, up, up. At size 24 the garment is smaller than its label, and at size 31 it is two inches bigger. Two customers buying the same trousers in the same cloth to their own measurements are getting garments that fit in opposite directions. And the page says nothing about any of it. There is no true to size, no fit guidance, no recommendation to size up or down, and no model. This run has been tracking that absence for many batches and it is worth saying plainly that this is the garment in this batch that most needs the guidance and the one that has the least of it. Another garment published in this same batch has a clean grade and a fit statement, and this one has neither, and it is the one with the negative ease. It is worth adding the one thing the page does say about fit, because it is the cruellest omission on it. The bullet says relaxed fit through the hips. And the hip is not measured. The chart has three columns and the only width in it is the waistband. So the one part of the body where the page promises comfort is the one part of the body it does not measure, and the part it does measure is the part that is too small at the smallest size.

Fine vertical ribs, and that is the second thing, and this run wants to be both fair and precise about it. The description says these corduroy jeans have fine vertical ribs and a soft, velvety texture. So the wale is described, and that is genuinely more than most pages give: this run has met a great many corduroy garments in this run and the overwhelming majority say the word corduroy and nothing else. Fine tells a reader something real, because a fine wale cord is lighter, drapes more softly and reads quite differently from a wide wale at a distance. So this run will credit it. But it is a category and not a count. Corduroy is specified by the number of wales per inch, and fine covers a range wide enough that two fine cords can look different from each other. And there is still no weight, in ounces or grams, on a cloth whose whole character comes from the combination of its wale and its weight. Now the word vertical deserves a moment, because it looks like it answers something and does not. This run has asked, on every single corduroy it has met, for the nap direction, and has never once received it. Vertical is not that. Vertical describes which way the ribs run, which is along the length of the cloth, and every corduroy does that. The nap is which way the pile lies, and it is the thing that decides whether a garment looks darker or lighter, and whether two panels cut from the same roll match each other once they are sewn into a garment with a front and a back. A reader who sees vertical might reasonably believe the question has been answered. It has not. And there is no pile crush guidance either, on a cloth whose pile is the entire point of it, and corduroy crushes in wear and in washing in a way that a flat cloth does not. It is worth closing this on the rise, because here the page is right and this run should say so. The inseam is 81 centimetres and the total length is 110, both frozen across the eight sizes, so the rise is about 29 centimetres, or about 11.4 inches. The bullet says high rise, and the description says a flattering high rise waist. Eleven point four inches is a high rise. So the number and the word agree. This run has been deriving rises by subtracting the inseam from the outseam for several batches now, and has caught two garments from another brand whose rise words contradicted their own numbers, and has cleared two that matched. This is the third one cleared, and it matters for the same reason the others did: a method that only ever finds fault is not a method. It is worth noting the comparison the run can now make, because with this one the tally is instructive. Twenty nine and thirty centimetres have both been called high rise, and both were right. Thirty one centimetres was called mid rise, and that one was wrong. Twenty six centimetres was called low rise, and that one was wrong. So the disagreements in this run have not been about the derivation, they have clustered at the ends of the scale where a brand's vocabulary stops matching its patterns.

Pair ours back with a sleek tank, a great blazer, gold jewellery and small kitten heels, and that is the third thing, and it is worth setting out because it is what the page spends its words on instead of specifications. The description gives a full styling recommendation, four items, in a sentence. And in the same paragraph it gives no weight, no wale count, no hip measurement and no fit guidance. That is a choice about what a product page is for, and this run has watched the same choice made on garment after garment in this run: words about how a thing looks and what to wear it with, and silence about what it measures. It is worth putting the numbers on that, because they are stark. The page mentions the waist, the rise, the leg and the hips in prose, and it publishes a waist, an inseam and a total length. So of the four fit areas it discusses, one is measured. And the one it discusses most specifically, relaxed through the hips, is not among them. It is worth adding the smaller inconsistencies, because they follow the same habit. The bullets say blackened navy corduroy and the description says a deep navy hue, so the colour has two names on one page, which is a thing this run has now noted on several garments. The care label is two clauses and does not mention washing inside out or with like colours, on a dark corduroy with a pile that crushes and a colour that runs, while another garment published in this same batch from a different brand does mention both. There are five photographs where the others in this run have six. And there is no model, no size conversion and no certification. It is worth ending on the one thing in the column that is genuinely good news, because a page this thin should still get credit where it is due. Every size is in stock. This run has been recording stock levels across dozens of garments and has watched page after page offer three or four sizes out of eight, and has said each time that a customer who finds her size greyed out cannot buy the garment at any price. Here all eight are available. It is a shame that the size most likely to be wrong is the one that is easiest to buy. Every bulk shipment gets a measurement report against your approved chart.

Optional upgrades include quoting the wale count and the cloth weight, giving the nap direction and pile crush guidance, correcting the ease at size 24 so it is positive, grading the waist on a uniform grade and publishing the ease against the label at every size, publishing the rise at every size and grading it, adding hip, thigh, knee and leg opening measurements, washing inside out and with like colours on the care label, giving the button count and size, adding a size conversion, a model height and fit guidance, replacing cold with a temperature in degrees, adding colourfastness and shrinkage figures, wide wale, baby cord and stretch corduroy, cotton twill, straight, barrel and tapered leg options, mid and low rise options, a zip fly, size set, colour development, private label, hangtag and care labelling.

Pre-production sample approval, in-line inspection during cutting and sewing, and a final AQL inspection before packing, with measurement reports and photos shared before shipment.

Send us your tech pack, a photo or a reference garment and we will quote within 24 hours. Contact bafinasa@bafinasa.com or WhatsApp +86 13827222469.