Black Cotton Corduroy Wide Leg Trouser - OEM

A trouser from Hartford in deep black corduroy, cut with a high waist, a wide leg, a button and zip fly and buttoned back pockets, listed at 185 GBP with all five sizes in stock. It publishes two columns, and both of them are worth a close look, but for opposite reasons. The inside leg reads 83 and then 84, 84, 84 and 84, which is to say that the trouser is the same length from the crotch down for every size in the range, and only the smallest size is a centimetre shorter. That is the second time in two batches this run has found a trouser dimension held still across the size range, and last time it was only visible by subtracting two columns; here it is visible directly, which is worse. The waist reads 36, 38, 40, 41 and 43, which steps two, two, one and two and looks like the same kind of problem, and it is not: those five numbers are exactly what a uniform grade of about 1.8 centimetres produces once rounded, so the waist is evenly graded and the chart hides it. And the cloth has a property that governs how it must be cut, and nothing on the page mentions it. The reference is the Parade Pant in Black. Dongguan Bafinasa Garments Co., Ltd. develops comparable trousers on OEM and ODM terms, from cloth sourcing to retail or FBA ready packing. We publish this as a development reference and build your own version of it, and we do not supply the branded original or reproduce anyone else's label.

Key Features

• Inside leg 83 then 84, 84, 84 and 84 cm, so the trouser is one length from the crotch down for every size. See the note below
• Waist 36, 38, 40, 41 and 43 cm, which is exactly a uniform 1.8 cm grade rounded, so the apparent irregular step is an artifact. See the note below
• Medium ribbed corduroy as stated, and corduroy is specified by its wale count, which is not given. See the note below
• Corduroy has a nap that must be cut in one direction, which raises cloth consumption and shows as a shade difference, and nothing on the page says so. See the note below
• Two measurements published in total, no hip, no rise, no outside leg and no hem width, on a woven cloth with no stretch. See the note below
• One photograph, and the feature the description names that it cannot show is the buttoned back pockets. See the note below
• About 4.4 in of ease at the smallest falling to about 2.0 in at the largest, held steady by the grading once the rounding is removed

Customisable Options

• Cloth: medium ribbed corduroy to the reference, with the wale count and the weight stated, or a wide wale corduroy, a fine pinwale, or a cotton twill, each quoted separately
• Cutting: one-way cutting as the nap requires, with the cloth allowance quoted, or a non-napped alternative if that is preferred
• Waist: high to the reference, with the hip published, or a mid rise, with the hip published either way
• Leg: wide to the reference, with the hem width published, or a straighter leg, or a tapered leg, each quoted separately
• Inside leg: 84 cm to the reference, held across sizes, or graded at about one centimetre per size, or a shorter or longer leg
• Closure: button and zip fly to the reference, with the zip length and the button size specified, or a plain fly, or a side zip, each quoted separately
• Wale count and cloth weight, hip and rise measurements, hem width, inside leg and whether it grades, zip length and button size, pocket dimensions, size set, colour development, private label and care labelling

Specifications

Size Chart as Published by the Reference

The waist figures are flat half measures taken with the trouser laid down, doubling to 72, 76, 80, 82 and 86 cm around, or 28.3, 29.9, 31.5, 32.3 and 33.9 in. The published steps are 2, 2, 1 and 2 cm, but a uniform grade of about 1.8 cm rounds to exactly these figures, so the waist is evenly graded and the true ease falls steadily from about 4.4 in to about 2.0 in across the range. The inside leg is 83 cm on the smallest size and 84 cm on every other size, so it is effectively one length for the whole range. No hip, no rise, no outside leg and no hem width are published.

Our Proposed Body Chart

Occasions and Styling

Suits autumn and winter and everyday dressing. A corduroy wide leg trouser is a cold weather piece with some weight to it, and the reference is right that it will take either tailoring or a tee, since the cloth is what makes it look considered either way.

Production and Quality Control

The reference publishes two columns for all five sizes, states a single fibre, names the cloth, describes the leg, the waist, the closure and the pockets, gives a two-clause care instruction, names the country of production and publishes a size conversion. It publishes no fit guidance and no model information, and gives no hip, no rise, no outside leg, no hem width, no wale count, no cloth weight and no pocket dimensions, and it never mentions that the cloth has a nap. Three things follow: the inside leg that does not move, the waist that only looks as though it does not, and the nap.

Eighty-four on every size, and that is the first thing. The inside leg reads 83, 84, 84, 84 and 84. So the smallest size is 83 cm from the crotch to the hem and every other size in the range is 84, and the difference of one centimetre at the bottom is within the tolerance of laying a garment down and measuring it, so the honest reading is that this trouser is one length from the crotch down for every size it is made in. It is worth setting this beside what this run found on the checked trouser it examined two batches ago, because the two cases are instructive together. That trouser published an inseam and a total length, both of which graded one centimetre per size, so both columns moved. But subtracting one from the other gave 27 centimetres at every single size, and that difference is the rise, so that trouser had a rise held still across the range and a reader could only discover it by doing arithmetic that nothing on the page invited. Here the frozen dimension is out in the open: it is the inside leg itself, and no subtraction is needed. This run has argued before that a frozen length is more defensible on a skirt or a dress than on a trouser, because a skirt hangs from the waist and the waist sits at the same height on the body whatever the size. A trouser is different, because a trouser's length is measured against the wearer's leg, and legs do not stop getting longer as bodies get wider. A woman who is larger across is on average also taller, and her crotch sits further from the floor. So a trouser cut to one inside leg for five sizes will sit progressively higher above the ankle on the larger sizes, and by the largest the difference is several centimetres of trouser that is not there. It is worth saying that there is a commercial reason makers do this, which is that one length is cheaper than five: it is one pattern piece, one marker, one cutting operation, and no cloth lost to grading. That is a real saving and it is a defensible choice for a trouser sold at this price. But it is a choice about the customer rather than only about the cloth, and it should be stated, because a woman who knows she needs a longer or shorter leg has no way of finding out from this page that the leg does not change. What makes it worse here is what else is missing. Last time this run could at least recover the rise by subtracting, because there were two length columns. Here there is one, so there is no outside leg to subtract from and no way to know the rise at all. And there is no hip, which on a woven cloth with no stretch is the measurement that decides whether the trouser goes on, and no hem width, which is what wide leg actually means.

Two, two, one, two, and it is one point eight, and that is the second thing. The waist reads 36, 38, 40, 41 and 43, so the steps are two, two, one and two, and a one in the middle of a run of twos is the clearest possible invitation to do the check, because it looks like a mistake. It is not. The check asks whether any single uniform grade would produce this column once rounded, and working through the four conditions in turn confines the grade to somewhere between about 1.75 and 1.83, and 1.8 sits inside that: 36, 37.8, 39.6, 41.4 and 43.2, which round to 36, 38, 40, 41 and 43, exactly as published. So the waist is evenly graded at about 1.8 centimetres per size, and the apparent stumble in the middle is an artifact of rounding. This run has now run this test on eight columns across five garments, and it is worth stating the tally because it has changed how the run reads charts. Six columns that looked irregular turned out to be perfectly even. Two did not. So the presence of an irregular step in a published chart is weak evidence of anything at all, and the run has been wrong in both directions: it has suspected a brand of uneven grading when the grading was fine, and it has praised a column for being clean when the underlying grade was not. The remedy remains what one page in this run already does, which is to publish the figures as they are rather than rounded. It is also worth saying what the true grade does to the fit, because the answer is good news. One point eight centimetres of flat width is 1.42 inches of circumference against a body waist that grades two inches per size, so the ease closes by about three fifths of an inch at every size, and computed from the unrounded figures it runs about 4.4, 3.8, 3.2, 2.6 and 2.0 inches across the five sizes, a steady and modest drift with no surprises in it. The published figures, by contrast, suggest a jump of 1.2 inches between the third and fourth sizes, which is not what the garment does. So on this trouser the waist is the well behaved column and the length is the one to ask about.

A nap, and it is not mentioned, and that is the third thing. The cloth is described as a medium ribbed corduroy, and that description is worth dwelling on because corduroy is one of the few cloths with a specification all of its own. Corduroy is made with raised ribs running down its length, and those ribs are called wales, and the cloth is specified by how many wales there are to the inch. A wide wale corduroy has few, a fine pinwale has many, and the number decides how the cloth looks, how it drapes, how much it costs and how it wears. Medium ribbed is an adjective standing in for that number, and the number is not given. Nor is the weight, though the description says the cloth has a pleasing weight and drape, which is an impression rather than a figure. Then the property that governs everything about how this trouser is made, and which the page never mentions: corduroy has a nap. The wales lie in one direction, and light falls on them differently depending on which way up they are, so two panels cut in opposite directions are visibly different shades of the same black. That has two consequences, and both of them cost money. The first is that every panel of the trouser has to be cut the same way up, which means the marker cannot be flipped or mirrored to save cloth, so a corduroy trouser uses more cloth than the same trouser in a plain weave. The second is that if it is got wrong, the mistake is permanent and obvious, and it shows as a trouser whose two legs are different shades. This run has met a nap before, on a checked pleated skirt where it noted that a one-way cloth cannot be turned to save fabric, and it is worth saying that corduroy is the clearest case of the problem in ordinary use. A maker reading this page would know it from the word corduroy alone. A customer would not, and there is no reason she should have to. Two smaller things follow from the same cloth. Corduroy wears at the tops of the wales, which go pale with abrasion at the seat and the inner thigh and along the hem, so a black corduroy has a known wear pattern that nothing on the page prepares anyone for. And corduroy wants to be washed inside out and pressed on the reverse, because pressing the face crushes the pile; the care label says machine wash at thirty and do not tumble dry, which is right on the second point and silent on the other two. Then the two things about the page itself. It publishes two measurements in total, waist and inside leg, which is the sparsest trouser chart this run has met, and it publishes one photograph, which is the fewest this run has met as well. And the one photograph is of the front, while the description names buttoned back pockets, so the feature that the description is proud of is the feature the photography cannot show. Finally, it is worth noting that this trouser is also made in a second colourway, which this run will look at next, and which is worth watching for a specific reason: two colourways of one style are the cleanest test there is of whether a brand's measurements are measured or copied. Every bulk shipment gets a measurement report against your approved chart.

Optional upgrades include publishing the wale count and the weight of the corduroy, stating that the cloth is napped and quantifying the extra cloth allowance that one-way cutting requires, grading the inside leg at about one centimetre per size or stating plainly that one length is deliberate, publishing the hip and the rise, publishing the hem width and the outside leg, specifying the zip by length and the waistband button by size, giving the pocket dimensions, adding wash inside out and press on the reverse to the care label, publishing fit guidance and a model height, a wide wale, pinwale and cotton twill option, mid rise option, straighter and tapered leg options, graded, shorter and longer leg options, plain fly and side zip options, size set, colour development, private label, hangtag and care labelling.

Pre-production sample approval, in-line inspection during cutting and sewing, and a final AQL inspection before packing, with measurement reports and photos shared before shipment.

Send us your tech pack, a photo or a reference garment and we will quote within 24 hours. Contact bafinasa@bafinasa.com or WhatsApp +86 13827222469.