Navy Cotton Twill Barrel Leg Trouser - Elastic Waist Drawstring for OEM

A navy twill trouser from Damson Madder cut with a loose barrel leg, a mid rise, an elasticated waist with drawstring ties, subtle side seam detailing and embroidery on the back pockets, listed at 85 GBP with four of six sizes in stock and the 10 and the 16 sold out. It publishes three columns for all six sizes, waist, inseam and total length, and the three of them do something this run has not met before. They step together. Between the UK 10 and the UK 12 the waist gains three centimetres, the total length gains three and the inseam gains one, where every other step in the table is one centimetre or nothing at all. A step of the same shape in three columns at the same size is not a typo in one of them, it is two different garments sharing one chart, and the consequence is that the range is not continuous at the point most customers cross. The reference is the Felix Twill Trouser in Navy. Dongguan Bafinasa Garments Co., Ltd. develops comparable trousers on OEM and ODM terms, from cloth selection and waistband construction to retail or FBA ready packing. We publish this as a development reference and build your own version of it, and we do not supply the branded original or reproduce anyone else's label.

Key Features

• Waist, inseam and total length published for all six sizes, the first trouser in this run to publish an inseam
• A rise that can be derived from the published figures, 28 to 30 cm, one of the few rise claims in this run that can be checked. See the note below
• All three columns step together between UK 10 and UK 12, which no other table in this run does. See the note below
• Loose barrel leg as stated, with no hip, no thigh and no leg opening published. See the note below
• Elasticated waistband with drawstring ties as stated, which is doing a share of the fitting. See the note below
• Embroidered back pockets as stated, and a care instruction that warns of colour loss and says do not dry clean. See the note below
• 100% cotton twill as stated, made in Turkey, four of six sizes in stock with the 10 and the 16 sold out

Customisable Options

• Cloth: cotton twill to the reference, with the weight in grams per square metre set to your market since none is given
• Leg: barrel to the reference, with the knee and hem widths specified, or a straight, wide or tapered option
• Waistband: fully elasticated with drawstring ties to the reference, or half elasticated with a clean front, or a fixed waistband with a zip and a hook
• Rise: mid at 28 to 30 cm to the reference, with a high or a low rise option
• Length: inseam 66 to 68 cm to the reference, with cropped, regular and long options
• Pockets: back patch pockets with embroidery to the reference, or plain, or jetted, or your own artwork
• Cloth weight, leg shape and widths, rise, waistband construction, elastic specification, drawcord and tipping, embroidery or print, shrinkage control, size set, colour development, private label and care labelling

Specifications

Size Chart as Published by the Reference

The waist figures are flat half measures taken with the trouser laid down, doubling to 72, 74, 76, 82, 84 and 86 cm around, or 28.3 through 33.9 in. Against a body waist that runs 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 and 34 in, the ease is about four and a third inches at a UK 6, about two at the 10, and about minus one tenth at the 16, so the published relaxed waist at the top of the range is marginally smaller than the body it is labelled for. The three columns step together between the UK 10 and the UK 12: the waist by three centimetres, the length by three and the inseam by one, where every other step in the table is one centimetre or zero. Subtracting the inseam from the total length gives a rise of 28, 28, 28, 30, 30 and 29 cm, and the final row is the one that cannot be right, since the length holds at 97 while the inseam grows to 68, which is a rise one centimetre shorter than the size below it.

Our Proposed Body Chart

Occasions and Styling

Suits autumn and winter, everyday wear, weekends and work. A navy barrel leg in cotton twill is a cold weather trouser that is not as formal as a tailored pair, and it sits with knitwear and boots as the reference suggests, and with a shirt or a fine gauge jumper for the office.

Production and Quality Control

The reference publishes three columns for all six sizes, including an inseam, which almost no trouser in this run does, states its fibre, describes the leg, the rise, the waistband, the pockets and the detailing, gives a full care instruction and names the country of make. Three things follow: what a step shared by three columns means, what a waist that reaches zero means on a drawstring garment, and what a barrel leg is worth when no width is published.

One step, three columns, and that is the first thing. Read the differences between consecutive rows instead of the rows themselves, which is the check this run recommends on every table, and this one reads as follows. The waist goes up by one, one, three, one and one centimetres. The length goes up by zero, zero, three, zero and zero. The inseam goes up by zero, zero, one, zero and one. Every column steps at the same boundary, between the UK 10 and the UK 12, and nowhere else. One unlikely figure in one column is a typo. Three at once, in the same place, is a change of source: two pattern blocks, or two measurement sessions, or a chart assembled from two production runs and pasted into one table. Whichever it is, the effect on the customer is the same, and it is worth stating plainly because it is the sort of thing a size chart hides. Someone who takes a UK 10 and someone who takes a UK 12 are adjacent sizes, and between them this garment gains three centimetres of waist and three of length in a single step, which is three times the step anywhere else in the range. There is no half size and no in between, and the customer who is between those two sizes has no good answer from this chart. Then there is the last row, which contradicts itself. The UK 14 gives 97 of length and 67 of inseam, so a rise of 30. The UK 16 gives 97 of length and 68 of inseam, so a rise of 29. A rise does not get shorter as the size gets larger, and a waistband does not sit lower on a bigger body, so one of those three figures is wrong, and it is most likely the 68. This run has met tables that were incomplete and tables that were unmaintained, and this is a third kind, a table that is internally inconsistent, and the remedy is the same in all three cases and takes a few minutes: measure the sample sizes again, write the differences out in a column, and check that the numbers a pattern can actually produce are the numbers on the page.

Mid rise, and the one rise in this run that can be checked, and that is the second thing. Total length minus inseam gives the side rise, and here it comes out at 28 cm on the smallest three sizes and 30 on the middle two, or 11.0 and 11.8 in. That is a credible mid rise, and it is the first time in this run that a stated rise word and a derived rise number have met and agreed, since every other garment that claimed a rise did so in words only. It is worth saying what the comparison is worth: the word mid is doing real work here and it can be verified in one subtraction, which is why we publish both the rise and the inseam on every trouser rather than one of them. Now to the waist, where the same arithmetic as the skirt earlier in this run applies. The published waist doubles to 72, 74, 76, 82, 84 and 86 cm, against a body waist of 61, 66, 71, 76, 81 and 86 cm, so the difference runs about plus eleven, plus eight, plus five, plus six, plus three and zero centimetres, ending fractionally negative at the largest size. This is the second garment in this run whose relaxed waist falls below the body waist at the top of its range, and both of them are elasticated, which is not a coincidence. An elasticated waistband is supposed to stretch, and a drawcord on top of it means the wearer can pull the garment in to whatever she likes, so the published figure is genuinely not the figure that fits, and in that sense neither garment is at fault. What is missing is the number that does fit. Three honest ways exist to measure an elasticated band, relaxed with the gathers spread, as it sits, and stretched flat, and they give three different answers, and no page in this run says which it used. We put two figures in one cell, relaxed and stretched, and we specify the elastic by its width, its modulus and its recovery, because the width decides whether it digs, the modulus decides how much force it takes to close, and the recovery decides whether the trousers are still up after an hour.

A barrel leg with no width at either end, and the dye that is warned about but not measured, and that is the third thing. A barrel leg is a shape made of widths: it curves out through the thigh and back in to a narrower hem, and it is defined by the thigh, the knee and the opening, none of which is published, and by the hip, which is not published either. This run has now met the same omission on every wide leg trouser it has examined, and the recommendation has not changed: publish the hip, the thigh and the leg opening, because without them nobody can tell how much cloth is in the trouser, so nobody can cost it, and nobody can tell whether it will pull across the seat, which is the failure a trouser actually suffers from. Then there is the finish, and it is the most interesting line on the page. The care instruction ends with a disclosure that a special dye process was used and that some loss of colour may occur after washing. That is a garment dyed or washed finish, stated as a liability, and it is exactly the condition under which two things follow. The first is that a fastness figure should be published, since a brand that knows its colour will move in the wash knows the number, and no rub, wash or light fastness figure appears here or on almost anything else in this run. The second is dimensional: a dyed or washed garment has been through a wet process that changes its size, which is precisely why a shrinkage figure matters more on this trouser than on a piece that was finished dry, and no shrinkage is given either, on a 100% cotton trouser whose inseam has to land at the ankle. The care instruction is otherwise a good one and includes a prohibition this run rarely sees, do not dry clean, which is correct for a garment with a special dye finish and which this run has seen set against the dry clean only instruction on every wool garment it has examined, the clearest evidence in the run that the instruction follows the cloth and the finish rather than the fibre. Two smaller notes. The style code reads RS26 while the house files the collection as AW26 and its other pieces in this run read AW26 or SS26, which is the third prefix seen from this source and matters only because style codes are how reorders are placed. And the two sizes that are sold out are the 10 and the 16, which are the last size before the step and the size whose row contradicts itself. Every bulk shipment gets a measurement report against your approved chart.

Optional upgrades include publishing the hip, the thigh and the leg opening, which between them define a barrel leg and cost a minute with a tape, resolving the step between UK 10 and UK 12 so the range is continuous, correcting the inseam on the UK 16 so the rise does not fall, publishing both the relaxed and the stretched waist, specifying the elastic width, modulus and recovery and the drawcord and its tipping, stating the cloth weight in grams per square metre, publishing shrinkage and colour fastness figures for the dye process named on the page, publishing the rise alongside the inseam, straight, wide and tapered leg options, high and low rise options, cropped and long lengths, plain or jetted pockets instead of embroidered ones, size set, colour development, private label, hangtag and care labelling.

Pre-production sample approval, in-line inspection during cutting and sewing, and a final AQL inspection before packing, with measurement reports and photos shared before shipment.

Send us your tech pack, a photo or a reference garment and we will quote within 24 hours. Contact bafinasa@bafinasa.com or WhatsApp +86 13827222469.