Brown Felted Virgin Wool Jacket - Rounded Stand Collar Coat for OEM

The Ficus jacket from LABO.ART in a brown felted virgin wool rather than the padded cotton blend published beside it in this batch, with the same rounded architectural silhouette, the same stand collar, the same button-down front, the same dropped shoulders and the same curved front patch pockets, listed at 560 GBP with one of four sizes in stock and only the 3 available. It publishes pit to pit, sleeve and length for all four sizes, and the comparison worth making is with the other Ficus: same house, same style number, same season, and two tables that do not agree. The padded version measures 58 cm across the chest at size 0 and this one measures 55, and more strikingly the length is 56 cm on the padded version and 61 here, five centimetres apart on what is sold as the same style. Two colourways of one cloth can share a table, as the trousers in this run showed, but one style in two cloths cannot. The reference is the Ficus Feltro Jacket in Cacao. Dongguan Bafinasa Garments Co., Ltd. develops comparable wool outerwear on OEM and ODM terms, from cloth selection and pattern work to retail or FBA ready packing. We publish this as a development reference and build your own version of it, and we do not supply the branded original or reproduce anyone else's label.

Key Features

• 100% virgin wool, felted, made in Italy, dry clean only
• Same style number as the padded Ficus in this batch, with a different measurement table throughout. See the note below
• Rounded architectural silhouette with a stand collar and a button-down front as stated
• Dropped shoulders as stated, with the sleeve grading two centimetres per size
• Curved front patch pockets as stated
• Hip length as stated, running 61 to 64 cm across the four sizes
• One of four sizes in stock, size 3 only

Customisable Options

• Cloth: felted virgin wool to the reference, with the fibre fineness in microns, the weight and the degree of fulling set to your market since none is given
• Fibre: 100% virgin wool to the reference, or a wool nylon blend for abrasion resistance, or a wool cashmere blend for hand
• Shoulder: dropped to the reference, or set in, which changes the sleeve grade and the sleeve figure
• Collar: stand collar to the reference, or a classic collar, or a shawl collar
• Edges: raw or topstitched edges as a felted cloth allows, or bound, or lined
• Pockets: curved patch to the reference, or straight patch, or welt
• Fibre fineness, cloth weight, degree of fulling, ease, body length, sleeve length, pocket style, edge finish, lining, size set, colour development, private label and care labelling

Specifications

Size Chart as Published by the Reference

The chest figures are flat half measures taken with the garment laid down, doubling to 110, 114, 118 and 122 cm around, or 43.3 through 48.0 in, which is about twelve inches of ease at size 0 falling to about eleven at size 3, since the garment grades two centimetres of flat width per size while the body chart moves two inches. The sleeve grades two centimetres per size and the length one, so this jacket gets wider and longer sleeved without getting much longer in the body. The same chest column appears on the Nora felted wool jacket earlier in this run, which suggests the house runs one chest grade across its felted wool blocks, while the padded Ficus beside this one grades three centimetres flat per size and measures 58 cm at the same size label.

Our Proposed Body Chart

Occasions and Styling

Suits autumn and winter, everyday wear, work and smart casual, and it layers. A felted wool holds warmth without bulk and the hip length works over a shirt or a knit, and the rounded shape the reference describes is the reason it reads as softer than a tailored jacket while still being worn to work.

Production and Quality Control

The reference states its fibre, describes the cloth as felted, publishes three columns for all four sizes, describes the silhouette, the collar, the shoulder and the pockets, gives a care instruction and states the country of make. Three things follow: what it means that one style number carries two different tables, how a felted wool changes the same pattern, and what is missing from a garment at this price.

One style number, two tables, and that is the first thing. The padded Ficus published beside this one carries the same style number, L972FJ003, differing only in the cloth and shade code, and it is described in nearly identical words: the same rounded silhouette, the same stand collar, the same button-down front, the same dropped shoulders, the same curved patch pockets. And the two tables do not agree. At size 0 the padded version measures 58 cm flat across the chest and this one measures 55. The sleeve runs 59 on the padded one and 57 here. The length runs 56 on the padded one and 61 here, five centimetres. The grades differ too: three centimetres of chest per size on the padded jacket and two here, three centimetres of length per size there and one here. Now, none of this is a fault, and it is in fact the correct behaviour. A felted wool has been fulled, so it has already shrunk and consolidated, it has less drape and more body, and it is cut and finished differently from a padded woven shell, and anyone who has made the same pattern in two cloths knows the tables will not match. The point is what it tells you about the tables themselves, and it completes a pair this run has now seen both halves of. Two colourways of one cloth in one style shared a table digit for digit, on the Bonnie trousers, and that was defensible because the cloth, the pattern and the finishing route were the same. One style in two cloths does not share a table, and cannot. Which means a measurement table is a property of a garment in a particular cloth and not of a style, and any size chart that is written once and copied across every version of a style is wrong from the second version onward. The practical discipline follows directly and it costs very little: measure the sample of each cloth version, keep the tables separate even when they happen to agree, and put the cloth on the chart so nobody has to guess which version the numbers belong to.

Felted wool on a rounded shape, and what the cloth does that a woven will not, and that is the second thing. Felted or boiled wool is a woven cloth that has been wetted, heated and worked so the fibres migrate and the cloth contracts and consolidates, and three properties follow that matter to this particular garment. It does not fray, so the seams can be butted and topstitched or left raw, which is a cleaner finish than any woven can take and which suits the soft rounded silhouette the reference is describing, since a raw edge on a felted cloth has no bulk to fight the curve. It holds its own shape without much help, so a garment with a rounded shoulder and a stand collar can be made with far less interfacing and canvas than a tailored jacket would need, which is part of why the shape reads as soft rather than structured. And it is warm for its weight, because the fulling has closed the air gaps in the cloth, so a hip length felted jacket is warmer than the same shape in a plain woven wool of the same weight. There are costs on the other side. The cloth has been shrunk down from a larger piece, so it takes more raw wool per finished metre and costs more per metre than a woven equivalent, which is part of why this jacket is priced well above the padded version of the same style. It has less drape, so a silhouette that needs to fall will not come out of it, and it is firmer in the hand, which some markets read as rustic. And no specification is given here at all: no fibre fineness in microns, no weight, and no degree of fulling, and the degree of fulling is the one that decides both the weight and the residual shrinkage and therefore the stability of the finished garment. Anyone developing this needs all three numbers before they can source an equivalent, and we would add a shrinkage test on the bulk cloth before cutting, because felted wools vary more between lots than woven cloths do.

Five hundred and sixty pounds, one size left, and what is still not published, and that is the third thing. This is the second most expensive reference in this run and, like the others, it publishes three columns and stops. There is no fibre fineness, and virgin wool says only that the fibre is new, while fineness in microns is what decides whether a wool worn against the neck is comfortable or prickles, and this jacket has a stand collar sitting directly against it. There is no cloth weight, so nobody can tell whether this is a light coating or a heavy one or what it costs. There is no lining statement, and on a felted wool there are three legitimate constructions: unlined with raw or bound seams, which is the lightest and the cheapest and takes advantage of the cloth's not fraying; half lined through the sleeves and back; or fully lined, which is the most expensive and the easiest to slip on over a knit. Three different garments and three different prices, and the page does not say which this is. No shoulder or across back measurement appears, and on a garment built around a dropped shoulder that is the measurement that decides where the whole silhouette falls. The sleeve is published at 57 to 63 cm with no origin, so it cannot be compared with the 59 cm on the padded Ficus or with anything else in this run. No model information appears, so the 61 cm hip length cannot be read against a height. And there is the stock, which is worth a line because it changes what the table means in practice: one of four sizes is available, and it is the largest, so the published size set is four wide and the one that can be examined today is a quarter of it. Every bulk shipment gets a measurement report against your approved chart.

Optional upgrades include stating the fibre fineness in microns, the cloth weight and the degree of fulling, which together specify a felted wool and none of which appear here, running a shrinkage test on the bulk cloth before cutting, offering unlined with raw or bound edges, half lined and fully lined versions and quoting them separately, since felted wool makes all three possible, publishing shoulder and across back measurements, publishing the sleeve origin, adding a model height and body measurements, a set in shoulder version off the same block, classic and shawl collar options, straight patch or welt pockets, a longer length option, size set, colour development, private label, hangtag and care labelling.

Pre-production sample approval, in-line inspection during cutting and sewing, and a final AQL inspection before packing, with measurement reports and photos shared before shipment.

Send us your tech pack, a photo or a reference garment and we will quote within 24 hours. Contact bafinasa@bafinasa.com or WhatsApp +86 13827222469.