Faded Indigo Rigid Barrel Leg Jean - OEM

The Miro Relaxed Jean from Citizens of Humanity in the Vintage Sky wash, made from a heavyweight rigid denim with a softly tapered ankle length leg that creates a subtle barrel shape, listed at 320 GBP with five of eight sizes left. It is worth beginning with the waist column, because it is the first one in this entire run that is perfectly regular. Read across the eight sizes it goes 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41 and 42 centimetres, stepping one, one, one, one, one, one and one. Exactly one centimetre at every step, no wobble, no rounding noise, no jump. This run has measured a great many charts and has not once found a clean one, so it is worth saying plainly that this is a properly graded pattern and the brand should be credited for it. And a clean column is not merely tidy, it is legible: because the grade is exact, the fit can be read off it rather than guessed at. So, doubling to 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82 and 84 centimetres around, which is 27.56, 28.35, 29.13, 29.92, 30.71, 31.50, 32.28 and 33.07 inches. Against label sizes of 24 to 31 inches, that is about 3.56, 3.35, 3.13, 2.92, 2.71, 2.50, 2.28 and 2.07 inches of ease. It falls by about a fifth of an inch at every single size, and the arithmetic predicts it exactly: one centimetre of flat grade is about 0.79 inches of circumference against a body that gains one inch per jean size, so the ease must lose about 0.21 inches each step. It does. Now the page says fits true to size, and that is worth dwelling on, because the number and the claim do not describe the same garment at any point in the range. At size 24 these jeans are three and a half inches bigger than their own label. At size 31 they are two inches bigger. Neither of those is true to size, and the spread between them is about an inch and a half. And the cloth is 100% cotton with no elastane in it at all, which the page states as heavyweight rigid denim. So these are rigid jeans that get tighter relative to the body as the size goes up, and rigid denim does not give. The second thing worth setting out is the rise, and it sharpens when set beside this brand's own other styles. The inseam is 70 centimetres and the total length is 101, both frozen across the eight sizes, so the rise works out at about 31 centimetres, or about 12.2 inches. The bullet says mid rise. A mid rise is around nine to ten inches, and 12.2 is a high rise. And in the same batch from this same brand there is another pair whose rise works out at about 30 centimetres and whose bullet says high rise. So the brand calls 30 centimetres high and 31 centimetres mid, and the bigger rise gets the lower name. The reference is the Miro Relaxed Jean in Vintage Sky. Dongguan Bafinasa Garments Co., Ltd. develops comparable denim and jeans on OEM and ODM terms, from cloth sourcing by weight and stretch to retail or FBA ready packing. We publish this as a development reference and build your own version of it, and we do not supply the branded original or reproduce anyone else's label.

Key Features

• The only perfectly uniform waist column in this run, stepping exactly 1 cm at all seven steps. See the note below
• Ease of about 3.56 in at size 24 falling to about 2.07 in at size 31, a steady collapse of about 0.21 in per size. See the note below
• Heavyweight rigid denim in 100% cotton with no elastane, so the jeans get tighter as the size goes up and the cloth does not give. See the note below
• Fits true to size as stated, covering a spread of about 1.5 in and matching the label at no size. See the note below
• A rise of about 31 cm derived from the published lengths, called mid rise, while the same brand calls 30 cm high rise. See the note below
• Regenerative and recycled cotton in the description, and 100% regenerative cotton in the fibre panel, which drops recycled entirely. See the note below
• Inseam 70 cm and total length 101 cm, both frozen across all eight sizes. See the note below

Customisable Options

• Cloth: heavyweight rigid denim to the reference, with the weight in ounces stated, or a midweight rigid denim, or a comfort stretch denim, or a rigid denim with regenerative cotton, each quoted separately
• Fibre: regenerative cotton to the reference, with the programme named, or regenerative and recycled cotton with the recycled percentage stated, or organic cotton, or conventional cotton, each quoted separately
• Grade: a 1 cm flat grade to the reference, or a grade that holds the ease steady at about 1.27 cm per size, or a grade set to your own chart, each quoted separately
• Rise: the rise published and named correctly to your own scale, or a true mid rise, or a high rise, each quoted separately
• Leg: softly tapered ankle length with a subtle barrel to the reference, with the knee and leg opening measured, or a straight barrel, or a straight leg, or a wide leg, each quoted separately
• Wash: softly faded indigo to the reference, with the process named, or a raw indigo, or a dark wash, or a black wash, each quoted separately
• Cloth weight in ounces and grams per square metre, rise at every size, ease against the label at every size, hip, thigh, knee and leg opening measurements, regenerative and recycled percentages and certifiers, wash process and colourfastness, zip brand and length, size set, colour development, private label and care labelling

Specifications

Size Chart as Published by the Reference

The waist figures are flat half measures taken with the jeans laid down, doubling to 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82 and 84 cm around, or 27.56, 28.35, 29.13, 29.92, 30.71, 31.50, 32.28 and 33.07 in. Against the label sizes of 24 to 31 in, the ease is about 3.56, 3.35, 3.13, 2.92, 2.71, 2.50, 2.28 and 2.07 in, falling by about 0.21 in at every size. The waist steps exactly 1 cm at all seven steps, which is the only perfectly uniform waist column in this run. The inseam is 70 cm and the total length is 101 cm at all eight sizes, so the rise works out at about 31 cm, or about 12.2 in.

Our Proposed Body Chart

Occasions and Styling

Suits autumn and winter and everyday dressing. A faded indigo barrel leg in rigid denim is the jean that carries a knit and a flat, and the tapered ankle works with a boot or a loafer.

Production and Quality Control

The reference publishes three columns for all eight sizes, grades its waist column perfectly, gives a model height and the size worn, states the fibre, says plainly that the denim is rigid, describes the cloth, the leg, the wash and the closure, gives a care instruction that includes washing inside out and with like colours, names the country of production and names the style and colour codes. It gives no cloth weight, no rise measurement, no hip, thigh, knee or leg opening, no wash process, no colourfastness, no zip specification, no size conversion and no certifier for either of its two sustainability claims, and its description and its fibre panel disagree about what the cotton is. Three things follow: the clean grade and what it reveals, the rise that is named wrongly, and the recycled cotton that appears in one place and not the other.

One, one, one, one, one, one, one, and that is the first thing, and it is worth saying plainly because this run has been looking for it for a very long time. The waist column reads 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41 and 42 centimetres. Every step is exactly one centimetre. Seven steps, seven identical steps, no wobble between one and two, no jump at a block boundary, no half centimetres appearing and disappearing. This run has now measured waist columns on dozens of garments across many brands and has not once found a clean one: they have wobbled between one and two centimetres, or jumped from one to three, or split between two blocks, or frozen altogether. So this is a properly graded pattern, the brand should be credited for it, and this run will credit it without hedging. And a clean column is worth more than tidiness, because it is the first one in this run that can actually be read. Every other chart this run has looked at carried rounding noise, which meant any conclusion drawn from it had to be qualified. This one does not. So it can be read. Doubling the flat measure gives 70 to 84 centimetres around, or 27.56 to 33.07 inches, and against label sizes of 24 to 31 the ease is about 3.56, 3.35, 3.13, 2.92, 2.71, 2.50, 2.28 and 2.07 inches. It falls by about a fifth of an inch at every single size. And the arithmetic that this run has been using for three batches predicts it to the decimal: a flat grade of one centimetre is two centimetres of circumference, which is about 0.79 inches, against a body that gains one inch per jean size, so the ease must lose about 0.21 inches at each step. It loses 0.21, then 0.22, then 0.21, then 0.21, then 0.21, then 0.22, then 0.21. Now here is what that means, and it is worth being blunt about the big end. These jeans are 100% cotton with no elastane, and the page says heavyweight rigid denim. So the ease runs from three and a half inches of room at the smallest size down to two inches at the largest. They get tighter relative to the body as the size goes up, and rigid denim does not give anywhere. There is no stretch to absorb the shortfall, and no guidance anywhere on the page to warn a customer at the top of the range. And the page says fits true to size. It is worth dwelling on that, because the claim and the numbers describe different garments at every point. At size 24 the jeans are three and a half inches larger than their label, which is loose. At size 31 they are two inches larger, which is close. Neither is true to size, and the difference between the two ends is about an inch and a half. This run said last batch that a fit claim covering a spread like this is one sentence doing the work of eight numbers, and it is worth adding here that the numbers were available, and they were clean, and they were not published. And this run can now say something it could not say before, because this batch contains a direct counterpart. Another pair from this same brand, published alongside this one, has ease that climbs from about 0.80 inches at its smallest to about 6.01 inches at its largest. Same brand, same size range, same season, both 100% cotton, both rigid, and both say true to size. One gets looser as it gets bigger and the other gets tighter. There is no house fit here for the claim to be describing.

One hundred and one minus seventy, and that is the second thing, and it is worth setting out because it is a contradiction and because it becomes sharper when set beside the brand's own other garments. The inseam is 70 centimetres at all eight sizes and the total length is 101 at all eight, so the rise works out at about 31 centimetres, which is about 12.2 inches. The bullet says mid rise. And rises have a working scale that this run has used consistently: a low rise is around seven to eight inches, a mid rise around nine to ten, and a high rise around eleven to twelve. Twelve point two is a high rise. So the number and the word disagree by roughly two inches, which is not a rounding matter. It gets worse when placed next to the rest of the brand, because this run has now derived the rise on five garments from this same label using the same subtraction. This one is about 31 centimetres and is called mid. Another is about 30 centimetres and is called high. Another is about 29 and is called natural waist. Another is about 26 and is called low. Another is about 25 and says nothing. So the brand's rises span six centimetres across its range, and the naming does not follow them: 30 centimetres is high and 31 centimetres is mid, which means the word mid is being used for a rise one centimetre larger than the rise the same brand calls high. The vocabulary is not ordered. And the two garments where the word disagrees with the number are the two at the extremes: the 31 called mid, and the 26 called low, which is a mid rise by any scale. This run wants to be careful here, because it is possible the brand measures its rise from a different place than this subtraction assumes, and it has said before that a front rise taken on the body can differ from an outseam minus inseam by a centimetre or two. But a difference of a centimetre does not turn 12.2 inches into a mid rise, and more to the point, a house that grades its waist this cleanly cannot be guessing at its own rise. The rise is simply not published, and the word on the bullet is doing the work of a measurement that was taken and not shared. It is worth adding what else is frozen and unmeasured, because the pattern is the familiar one. Both the inseam and the total length repeat across all eight sizes, so the rise is fixed while the waist grows by 14 centimetres. And there is no hip, no thigh, no knee and no leg opening, on a garment whose whole selling point is its leg. The barrel is a shape made by the relationship between the knee and the hem, and neither is measured.

Regenerative and recycled, and that is the third thing, and it is a contradiction between two parts of the same page. The description says the denim is crafted from heavyweight rigid denim made with regenerative and recycled cotton. The fibre panel says made from 100% regenerative cotton. The panel drops the recycled claim entirely. Now, it is possible to read these as compatible: both regenerative and recycled are cotton, so a cloth could be 100% cotton and be a mix of the two origins, and the panel might be using regenerative loosely to mean the whole. But that is not what it says, and a fibre panel is the one place on a page where the words are supposed to be exact. If there is recycled content, the panel is the place it belongs, and it is also the place where the percentage belongs, and neither is there. So a reader is left with a description claiming recycled content that the composition panel does not confirm, and no percentage anywhere for either claim. It is worth putting that beside the rest of the run, because this run has now met this shape several times. It found a garment whose colour was given two different names on one page. It found one whose fibre panel disagreed with its bullets about whether the cloth was rigid. And it has now, on this brand alone, met regenerative cotton three times without a programme or a certifier named once. So the omissions are a house habit rather than a slip. And the claims are voluntary rather than regulated, which is precisely the problem this run noted one batch ago: with a voluntary claim and no programme behind it there is nothing at all for anyone to check, not even a name to look up. It is worth closing on what the page does get right, because this run has been critical and should be even handed. The care instruction says machine wash cold inside out with like colours, which are exactly the two things this run has asked for on every indigo garment it has met and which most pages omit. There is a model, at five foot ten in a size 27. The cloth is stated as rigid and the panel confirms it, which is right, unlike another garment from this brand that calls itself rigid while carrying 1% elastane. And the grade is clean. A page can grade perfectly, confirm its own rigidity, tell you to wash inside out, and still call a 12.2 inch rise a mid rise. Every bulk shipment gets a measurement report against your approved chart.

Optional upgrades include quoting the cloth weight in ounces and grams per square metre, publishing the rise at every size and naming it to a stated scale, holding the ease steady across the sizes or publishing the ease against the label at every size, grading the inseam across the sizes, adding hip, thigh, knee and leg opening measurements, giving the regenerative and recycled percentages and their certifiers, naming the wash process and giving a colourfastness figure, giving the zip brand and length, replacing cold with a temperature in degrees, adding a size conversion, midweight rigid and comfort stretch denim, organic and conventional cotton, raw indigo and dark washes, straight and wide leg options, high and true mid rise options, size set, colour development, private label, hangtag and care labelling.

Pre-production sample approval, in-line inspection during cutting and sewing, and a final AQL inspection before packing, with measurement reports and photos shared before shipment.

Send us your tech pack, a photo or a reference garment and we will quote within 24 hours. Contact bafinasa@bafinasa.com or WhatsApp +86 13827222469.