Medium Indigo Rigid Baggy Jean - OEM

The Ayla Baggy from Citizens of Humanity in a medium indigo wash with soft fading, marbling and subtle whiskering, made from a rigid non stretch cotton denim and designed to sit relaxed at the natural waist, listed at 340 GBP with six of eight sizes left. There is a number on this page that is not a matter of interpretation, and it is worth beginning there because this run has spent dozens of batches giving charts the benefit of the doubt. The total length column reads 109, 110, 110.5, 111, 111, 11.5, 112 and 112.5. The sixth figure is eleven point five centimetres. That is a pair of trousers four and a half inches long. It is obviously meant to be 111.5, and the surrounding figures confirm it, and it is wrong by a factor of ten in the middle of the size range. This run has built a careful habit of distinguishing rounding from measurement instability from block splits, and has repeatedly declined to call a chart wrong when there was a benign explanation. Here there is none, and the run should say so plainly: this is a data error on a published measurement. The second thing worth setting out is the ease, because this is the widest spread this run has found on a single garment. Read against the label sizes, the waist runs about 0.80 inches larger than the label at size 24 and about 6.01 inches larger at size 31, and it climbs the whole way. So the smallest size of these jeans has eight tenths of an inch of room, and the largest has six inches. And the cloth is 100% cotton with no elastane in it at all, which the page states plainly as rigid, non stretch. So at size 24 this is a rigid denim jean with eight tenths of an inch of ease, which is to say skintight, and rigid denim does not give. And the page says this style is true to size, one sentence covering a five inch spread. It does at least tell the reader what to do about it, and that is worth crediting, because it is the only actionable fit advice in this run: for a higher and closer fit, size down. The reference is the Ayla Baggy in Chaya. Dongguan Bafinasa Garments Co., Ltd. develops comparable denim and jeans on OEM and ODM terms, from cloth sourcing by weight and stretch to retail or FBA ready packing. We publish this as a development reference and build your own version of it, and we do not supply the branded original or reproduce anyone else's label.

Key Features

• Total length of 11.5 cm published at size 29, wrong by a factor of ten, and the only unambiguous data error in this run. See the note below
• Ease of about 0.80 in at size 24 rising to about 6.01 in at size 31, a spread of about 5.2 in on one garment. See the note below
• 100% regenerative cotton with no elastane, so rigid is true here and false on the brand's other jean in this batch. See the note below
• This style is true to size as stated, covering the five inch spread, with sizing down recommended. See the note below
• The only garment in this run whose inseam grades across the sizes, at 80 to 84 cm. See the note below
• A rise of about 29 cm derived at every size, and the only garment in this run whose derived rise moves. See the note below
• Machine wash cold inside out with like colours, do not bleach, tumble dry low, four clauses, the fullest denim care label in this run. See the note below

Customisable Options

• Cloth: rigid non stretch denim to the reference, with the weight in ounces stated, or a comfort stretch denim, or a heavier rigid denim, or a lighter rigid denim, each quoted separately
• Fibre: regenerative cotton to the reference, with the programme named, or organic cotton, or conventional cotton, or a recycled cotton blend, each quoted separately
• Fit: relaxed baggy to the reference, with a close fit option made by grading rather than by telling the customer to size down, or a straight leg, or a slimmer baggy, each quoted separately
• Rise: natural waist to the reference, with the rise published at every size, or a higher rise, or a lower rise, each quoted separately
• Leg: baggy to the reference, with the leg opening, thigh and knee measured, or a straight leg, or a barrel leg, or a tapered leg, each quoted separately
• Wash: medium indigo with fading, marbling and whiskering to the reference, with the process named, or a raw indigo, or a dark wash, or a black wash, each quoted separately
• Cloth weight in ounces and grams per square metre, rise at every size, leg opening, thigh, knee and hip measurements, regenerative programme and certifier, wash process and colourfastness, break in guidance for rigid denim, button count and size, size set, colour development, private label and care labelling

Specifications

Size Chart as Published by the Reference

The waist figures are flat half measures taken with the jeans laid down, doubling to 63, 68, 72, 76, 81, 86, 90 and 94 cm around, or 24.80, 26.77, 28.35, 29.92, 31.89, 33.86, 35.43 and 37.01 in. Against the label sizes of 24 to 31 in, the ease is about 0.80, 1.77, 2.35, 2.92, 3.89, 4.86, 5.43 and 6.01 in, a spread of about 5.2 in. The waist steps 2.5, 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5, 2 and 2 cm, which no uniform grade produces. The inseam grades from 80 to 84 cm. The total length column contains a published figure of 11.5 cm at size 29, which is impossible and is presumably 111.5 cm. The rise derived from the two lengths runs about 29, 29, 29, 29, 28, 28.5, 28.5 and 28.5 cm.

Our Proposed Body Chart

Occasions and Styling

Suits autumn and winter and everyday dressing. A medium indigo baggy jean in rigid denim is the piece that works with crisp shirting or a slim knit, and the broken in wash makes it easy from the first wear.

Production and Quality Control

The reference publishes three columns for all eight sizes at half centimetre precision, gives a fit statement and actionable fit advice, states the fibre and says plainly that it is rigid and non stretch, describes the wash in three named effects, gives a four clause care instruction that includes washing inside out and with like colours, names the country of production and carries six photographs. It gives no cloth weight, no rise measurement, no hip, thigh, knee or leg opening, no wash process, no button specification, no colourfastness, no break in guidance, no size conversion and no model information, and no certifier for its regenerative claim, and one figure in its total length column is wrong by a factor of ten. Three things follow: the number that is simply wrong, the five inch spread in the ease, and the word rigid that is true here and false elsewhere.

Eleven point five, and that is the first thing, and this run wants to be direct about it because it has spent a great many batches doing the opposite. The total length column reads 109, 110, 110.5, 111, 111, 11.5, 112 and 112.5. The sixth figure is eleven point five centimetres. A pair of trousers measuring eleven point five centimetres from waist to hem would be about four and a half inches long. It is obviously meant to be 111.5, and the figures either side of it confirm that, and the run of the column only makes sense if it is. So this is a published measurement that is wrong by a factor of ten. Now this run has been careful, batch after batch, about calling charts wrong. It has found that most irregular columns are whole centimetre rounding acting on a sound pattern. It has found that some are measurement instability on cloth that stretches or is padded. It has found one that was a pattern graded from two blocks with a jump between them. In every one of those cases it declined to say the chart was wrong, because there was a benign explanation and no way to distinguish. There is no benign explanation here. A digit has gone missing. And it is worth saying why this run is making something of a single figure on a single size, because the size in question is 29 and it is out of stock, so no customer can currently buy the affected size. That is fortunate rather than careful, and it does not change what the figure tells a reader about the page. This chart is the one in this batch published at half centimetre precision rather than whole centimetres, which means it is the one most likely to be a set of true measurements rather than rounded ones. It is the chart a careful customer would trust most. And it contains an impossible number. It is worth adding what else this precision does, because it cuts both ways. Because the figures are finer, the waist column is the most regular of the three garments in this batch: it steps 2.5, 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5, 2 and 2 centimetres, and the wobble is between two and two and a half rather than between one and two. And the inseam grades. And the total length grades. So this is the best resolved chart in the batch and it is the one with the error in it.

Zero point eight zero, and six point zero one, and that is the second thing, and it is the widest spread this run has measured on a single garment. The waist doubles to 63, 68, 72, 76, 81, 86, 90 and 94 centimetres around, which is 24.80, 26.77, 28.35, 29.92, 31.89, 33.86, 35.43 and 37.01 inches. Against label sizes of 24 to 31, that is about 0.80, 1.77, 2.35, 2.92, 3.89, 4.86, 5.43 and 6.01 inches of ease, rising almost the whole way. And the arithmetic this run has been using for three batches predicts it exactly: the waist grades about 2.21 centimetres of flat measure per size, which is about 1.74 inches of circumference against a body that gains one inch per jean size, so the ease should climb by about three quarters of an inch at every size. It does. And here is what that means, because the run has to be blunt about the small end. These jeans are 100% cotton with no elastane. The page says so, twice: made from a rigid, non stretch cotton denim. So at size 24 there is eight tenths of an inch of room over the body, in a cloth that does not stretch. That is a skintight jean, and rigid denim does not give. Meanwhile at size 31 there is six inches of room, which on a baggy jean is the shape it is meant to have. So the same garment is two different garments at the two ends of its own range, and the small end is the one that does not work. It is worth setting that against the page's own words, because the page says this style is true to size. One sentence, covering a spread of five point two inches. It is worth adding, in fairness, that this is the most useful fit guidance in this entire run, because it does not stop at the claim. It tells the reader what to do: for a higher and closer fit, we recommend sizing down. And the bullet repeats it. That is actionable, and no other page in this run has given a customer anything she can act on. But it is worth noticing what the advice is actually doing. The garment is cut with ease that increases with size, and the answer offered is not to fix the grade but to tell the customer to buy a different size. That works, and this run will credit it, but it moves the problem onto the customer. And the advice does not do the same thing at every size: sizing down from 31 to 30 removes about 0.58 inches, while sizing down from 25 to 24 removes about 0.97 inches. So the same instruction is nearly twice as strong at the small end, where there was least room to begin with. It is worth closing this on the one thing about this chart that is genuinely good, which is that the inseam grades. It runs from 80 to 84 centimetres across the eight sizes, and this is the only garment in this entire run whose leg length grows with the size. Every other trouser and jean this run has measured has held its inseam frozen. Grading the leg is arguably correct, since a larger body is on the whole a taller one, and a fixed leg length quietly makes a garment shorter on everyone above the smallest size. So this is the right thing to do and this run has not seen anyone else do it.

Rigid, and true this time, and that is the third thing, and it is the control that makes the run's complaint precise. The bullet says made from a rigid, non stretch cotton denim. The fibre panel says 100% regenerative cotton. No elastane. So rigid is correct. And this run published another pair of jeans from this same brand in this same batch whose bullet says rigid denim construction, and that one is 99% cotton with 1% elastane, and its own description calls it stretch denim. So the same brand, in the same season, in the same chart format, uses the word rigid on two garments and it is true on one and false on the other. And there is no way to tell from the bullets, because the bullets are where the word is, and the truth is in the fibre panel at the bottom of the page. This run has now met this exact shape twice in two batches: negative ease that is right on one garment and wrong on another, and rigid that is right on one and wrong on another. In both cases the distinguishing evidence is the composition panel and nothing else. It is worth saying what rigid costs and offers here, because the page states it and then does not follow through. Rigid denim behaves in a particular way: it is firm at first, it breaks in over several weeks, and it moulds to the wearer. That is why people choose it. And there is no weight given, so a reader cannot tell how heavy this rigid denim is, and heaviness is most of what determines how it breaks in. There is no finish named either, on a page that says the cloth feels soft to the touch, and softness on a rigid cotton denim is the result of a finish, not of the fibre. And there is nothing anywhere about break in, which is the single thing a customer new to rigid denim most needs to be told. It is worth ending on the two places where this page is genuinely better than most, because this run has been critical and it should be even handed. The care label is the fullest denim care label in this run: machine wash cold inside out with like colours, do not bleach, tumble dry low. Four clauses, and it includes washing inside out and with like colours, which are exactly the two things this run has asked for on every indigo garment it has met and which almost nobody gives. And the wash is described with three named effects: soft fading, marbling and subtle whiskering. That is specific and it is useful. It is a shame that the process is not named and there is no colourfastness figure, and a shame that a page which gets these things right gets its total length wrong by a factor of ten. And there is no model, while the other two garments from this brand in this batch both give one. Every bulk shipment gets a measurement report against your approved chart.

Optional upgrades include correcting the total length figure, quoting the cloth weight in ounces and grams per square metre, publishing the rise at every size and grading it, narrowing the spread in ease across the sizes so the small end is not skintight and publishing the ease at every size, keeping the inseam graded and describing the resulting length in words, adding hip, thigh, knee and leg opening measurements, naming the regenerative programme and certifier, naming the wash process and giving a colourfastness figure, adding break in guidance and naming the softening finish, giving the button count and size, adding a size conversion and a model height, replacing cold with a temperature in degrees, comfort stretch, heavier rigid and lighter rigid denim, conventional, organic and recycled cotton, raw indigo, dark and black washes, straight leg, barrel leg and tapered leg options, higher and lower rise options, size set, colour development, private label, hangtag and care labelling.

Pre-production sample approval, in-line inspection during cutting and sewing, and a final AQL inspection before packing, with measurement reports and photos shared before shipment.

Send us your tech pack, a photo or a reference garment and we will quote within 24 hours. Contact bafinasa@bafinasa.com or WhatsApp +86 13827222469.