Dark Brown Stretch Baby Cord Utility Pant - OEM

The Thassos Twisted Seam Utility Pant from Citizens of Humanity in a rich dark brown, made from stretch baby corduroy with side cargo pockets and twisted seam construction, listed at 340 GBP with five of eight sizes left. It carries a sentence this run has not been able to test before, and testing it is the first thing worth setting out. The page says this fit is true to size. That is a claim about the relationship between the label and the garment, and because the waist is published for all eight sizes, it can be checked rather than taken on trust. Read against the label sizes of 24 to 31 inches, the waist measures about 1.20, 1.77, 2.35, 2.13, 1.92, 2.50, 2.28 and 2.07 inches larger than the number on the hangtag. So true to size is doing work across a spread of about 1.3 inches, and the amount does not move in any order a customer could predict: it is 1.20 at the smallest, 2.35 at the third, 1.92 at the fifth and 2.28 at the seventh. Now this run wants to be fair, because on a trouser with 2% elastane that is arguably close enough, and stretch takes up the slack. But it is worth saying what the words are covering: one short sentence is being asked to describe eight different relationships between the label and the cloth. The second thing worth setting out is the leg. The inseam is 70 centimetres at every size from 24 to 31, and the total length is 95 at every size, so both are frozen and the rise works out at about 25 centimetres. And the model is stated as five foot ten, which is about 178 centimetres. A 70 centimetre inside leg on a 178 centimetre woman sits well above the ankle. These are cropped trousers, and the page never uses the word. It gets sharper when set beside the brand's own other styles, which this run publishes alongside this one: another pair from the same brand is described as having an easy ankle length inseam, and that one measures 73 centimetres. So within one brand, 73 centimetres earns the word ankle, and 70 centimetres, which is shorter, earns no length word at all. The reference is the Thassos Twisted Seam Utility Pant in Corduroy Barrister. Dongguan Bafinasa Garments Co., Ltd. develops comparable corduroy and trousers on OEM and ODM terms, from cloth sourcing by wale count and weight to retail or FBA ready packing. We publish this as a development reference and build your own version of it, and we do not supply the branded original or reproduce anyone else's label.

Key Features

• This fit is true to size as stated, and it can be checked: the waist runs about 1.20 to 2.50 in over the label size, unevenly. See the note below
• Inseam 70 cm and total length 95 cm, both frozen across all eight sizes, so a rise of about 25 cm. See the note below
• A 70 cm inside leg on a five foot ten model, so cropped, and the page never says so while the brand calls 73 cm ankle length elsewhere. See the note below
• Stretch baby corduroy as stated, the first wale description in this run, with no wale count, no wale direction and no weight. See the note below
• Twisted seam construction as stated, and the product is named for it, with nothing to say how much, where or how many. See the note below
• Side cargo pockets as stated, with no count, no dimensions, no closure and no depth. See the note below
• Waist stepping 2, 2, 1, 1, 2, 1 and 1 cm, which no uniform grade produces. See the note below

Customisable Options

• Cloth: stretch baby corduroy to the reference, with the wale count and the weight stated, or a fine wale cord, or a wide wale cord, or a rigid corduroy, or a cotton twill, each quoted separately
• Seams: twisted seam construction to the reference, with the twist amount and the placement stated, or a flat felled seam, or a plain seam, each quoted separately
• Fit: relaxed straight leg to the reference, with the ease against the label published at every size, or a slimmer leg, or a wider leg, each quoted separately
• Pockets: side cargo pockets to the reference, with the count, dimensions, closure and depth stated, or patch pockets, or no cargo pockets, each quoted separately
• Length: cropped to the reference, with the inseam graded across sizes, or an ankle length, or a full length, each quoted separately
• Closure: zip fly to the reference, with the zip brand and length stated, or a button fly, or a snap closure, each quoted separately
• Wale count and cloth weight, wale direction, stretch percentage and recovery, twist amount and seam placement, pocket count and dimensions, rise measurement at every size, hip, thigh, knee and leg opening measurements, size set, colour development, private label and care labelling

Specifications

Size Chart as Published by the Reference

The waist figures are flat half measures taken with the trousers laid down, doubling to 64, 68, 72, 74, 76, 80, 82 and 84 cm around, or 25.20, 26.77, 28.35, 29.13, 29.92, 31.50, 32.28 and 33.07 in. Against the label sizes of 24 to 31 in, the ease is about 1.20, 1.77, 2.35, 2.13, 1.92, 2.50, 2.28 and 2.07 in, so it varies by about 1.3 in with no order to it. The waist steps 2, 2, 1, 1, 2, 1 and 1 cm, which no uniform grade produces. The inseam is 70 cm and the total length is 95 cm at all eight sizes, so the rise works out at about 25 cm, or about 9.8 in, at every size.

Our Proposed Body Chart

Occasions and Styling

Suits autumn and winter and everyday dressing. A dark brown baby cord utility pant with cargo pockets is a piece that works with a knit and a boot, and the soft cord makes it easy to wear dressed down.

Production and Quality Control

The reference publishes three columns for all eight sizes, gives a fit statement rather than only a fit word, gives a model height and the size worn, states the fibre to the percentage, describes the cloth, the seams, the pockets, the leg and the closure, gives a care instruction with a drying setting, names the country of production and carries six photographs. It gives no cloth weight, no wale count or direction, no stretch or recovery figures, no twist specification, no pocket specification, no rise measurement, no hip, thigh, knee or leg opening, and no size conversion, and it never describes the length of the trousers it is selling. Three things follow: the fit claim that can be checked, the leg length that is frozen and undescribed, and the corduroy that is given a category instead of a count.

True to size, and that is the first thing, and it is worth setting out because this is the first garment in this run whose fit claim is testable rather than atmospheric. Most pages give a fit word, and a fit word is a mood: relaxed, boxy, slim. This one makes a factual claim about the relationship between the label and the garment, and because the waist is published for all eight sizes, the claim can be checked. So: the waist doubles to 64, 68, 72, 74, 76, 80, 82 and 84 centimetres around, which is 25.20, 26.77, 28.35, 29.13, 29.92, 31.50, 32.28 and 33.07 inches. The label sizes are 24 through 31. So the trousers run about 1.20 inches larger than their label at the smallest size, about 2.35 at the third, about 1.92 at the fifth and about 2.28 at the seventh. The spread is about 1.3 inches and the order is not monotonic: it goes up, up, down, down, up, down, down. Now this run wants to be fair to the brand here, because there is 2% elastane in the cloth and stretch absorbs some of this, and a trouser running one to two and a half inches over its label is broadly defensible as true to size. The point is not that the claim is false. The point is that it is one sentence covering eight different numbers, and the numbers are available and were not published. A customer who is between sizes, or who has been burned by this brand before, would want the figure and not the assurance. And this run can say from long habit what the alternative looks like: publish the ease against the label at each size, in one extra column, and the claim becomes checkable by the customer instead of by this run. It is worth adding what the waist column itself does, because it bears on the same question. It reads 32, 34, 36, 37, 38, 40, 41 and 42, stepping two, two, one, one, two, one and one centimetres. No uniform grade reproduces that, so the column fails this run's test. The steps alternate between 1 and 2 with no pattern, which is the signature of whole centimetre rounding acting on a true grade somewhere between the two, and this run has said on many garments that rounding is the most likely innocent explanation. But it means the published column is not the pattern, and any conclusion drawn from it, including this run's own ease figures, carries that rounding with it. It is worth closing this on the model, because it is given and it is useful. Five foot ten, which is about 178 centimetres, wearing a size 27. Size 27 has a waist of 74 centimetres around, or 29.13 inches, which is 2.13 inches over the label. So the brand's own model is photographed in the fit the brand considers true to size, and a customer who knows her own waist can place herself against that.

Seventy, and ninety five, and that is the second thing, and it is the run's tenth and eleventh frozen dimensions. The inseam is 70 centimetres at every size from 24 to 31. The total length is 95 centimetres at every size. Eight sizes, two dimensions, neither moving. This run has found frozen figures on eight garments now and has said each time that a number repeated across sizes is a fact about the pattern rather than a slip of the keyboard, and eight repetitions settles this one. And when both an inseam and an outseam are published, the difference is the rise, so the rise is about 25 centimetres, or about 9.8 inches, at every size. The page does not claim a rise, so there is no contradiction to report here, unlike another garment from this same brand that this run published recently and that called itself low rise while its own two numbers gave a rise of about 26 centimetres. No contradiction, but the rise is still not published, and it is still frozen, and the waist across those same eight sizes grows by 20 centimetres while the rise does not move at all. The more interesting consequence is the leg length, and it is worth doing carefully because it is a real omission rather than a technical one. Seventy centimetres is a short inside leg. And the model is five foot ten. This run has said before, on the only other garment in this run where a fixed inseam came with a stated model height, that the combination lets a customer work out where the hem will fall on her, and that was a credit. It is a credit here too, and it is also the thing that exposes the gap: anyone who does the arithmetic discovers these are cropped trousers, and the page never says so. The bullets say relaxed straight leg. The description says relaxed silhouette and mentions the seam detailing and the pockets and the colour. Not one word anywhere on the page described the length of the trouser. And this run can set that beside the brand's own house vocabulary, because another pair published in this same batch from this same brand is described as having an easy ankle length inseam, and that pair measures 73 centimetres. So within one brand, in one season, 73 centimetres is ankle length and 70 centimetres is nothing at all. That is not a rounding problem and it is not a judgement call about a borderline length. The shorter trouser gets no length word and the longer one does. It is worth adding what else is not measured, because the pattern is familiar by now. There is no hip, no thigh, no knee and no leg opening. The chart has three columns and the only width in it is the waist. And the relaxed straight leg, which is a claim about width and shape, has no width measurement to support it beyond the waistband.

Baby cord, and that is the third thing, and it is worth setting out because after many batches of asking, this is the first corduroy in this entire run to receive any description of its wale at all. Baby cord means a fine wale, and it is a real and useful piece of information: a fine wale cord is lighter, softer and drapes differently from a wide wale, and it reads quite differently at a distance. So this run will credit it. But it is a category and not a count. Corduroy is specified by the number of wales per inch, and baby cord is a trade term that covers a range, and the range is wide enough that two baby cords can look different. So the reader now knows the family and not the member. And there is still no weight, in ounces or grams, which matters more than usual here because the description leans on texture: soft velvety texture, and understated depth, and a soft texture and flexible fabrication in the bullets. Texture and depth in a corduroy are functions of the wale and the weight, and one is given as a category and the other is not given at all. It is worth adding the one thing this run has asked for on every single corduroy it has met and never once received, which is the wale direction. Corduroy has a nap, and the nap has a direction, and a garment cut with the nap running one way is a different colour from the same garment cut with it running the other. Every corduroy garment in this run has omitted it, and this one, which has come closest to specifying its cord at all, omits it too. And there is no pile crush guidance, on a cloth whose pile is the whole point of it. It is worth ending on the seam, because the product is named for it. This is the Thassos Twisted Seam Utility Pant. Twisted seam construction is stated in the description, and directional seam detailing is mentioned, and there is nothing anywhere to say how much the seam is twisted, where on the leg it runs, how many there are, or what it does to the fit. This run has now met this shape on a great many garments: a construction named on the page, sometimes in the product's own name, with no specification behind it. Triple stitching, welt seams, box pleats, a patchwork, and now a twisted seam. And the cargo pockets, which are the other half of the utility claim, are given no count, no dimensions, no closure type and no depth, even though cargo pockets add bulk at the thigh and the thigh is not measured either. Every bulk shipment gets a measurement report against your approved chart.

Optional upgrades include quoting the wale count and the cloth weight, giving the wale direction and pile crush guidance, giving the stretch percentage and the recovery, grading the waist on a uniform grade and publishing the ease against the label at every size, grading the inseam across the sizes and describing the resulting length in words, publishing the rise at every size, adding hip, thigh, knee and leg opening measurements, giving the twist amount, the placement and the count of the twisted seams, giving the pocket count, dimensions, closure and depth, giving the zip brand and length, adding a size conversion, replacing cold with a temperature in degrees, a fine wale and a wide wale cord and a rigid corduroy, flat felled and plain seam options, patch pockets and no cargo pockets, ankle and full length options, a button fly, size set, colour development, private label, hangtag and care labelling.

Pre-production sample approval, in-line inspection during cutting and sewing, and a final AQL inspection before packing, with measurement reports and photos shared before shipment.

Send us your tech pack, a photo or a reference garment and we will quote within 24 hours. Contact bafinasa@bafinasa.com or WhatsApp +86 13827222469.