Cropped Pleated Hem Suiting Jacket - OEM

The Angelina suiting jacket from Sea New York in black, crafted from a black twill in a cropped silhouette, defined by its hem where a band of pleats falls to create a soft flounce, with a round collarless neckline, a decorative chest pocket and button fastenings, listed at 540 GBP with one of four sizes in stock. It is worth beginning with the chart, because it is the most uniform this run has read. The pit to pit runs 46 to 52 centimetres, the sleeve 60 to 66 and the total length 48 to 54, and all three step exactly two centimetres at every step. Three columns, four sizes, one number doing all the work, and no column that disagrees with another. It is worth then reading one sentence from the description, because it is the whole problem with this page in eleven words. It is defined by its hem. The page says so. The hem is where a band of pleats falls to create a soft flounce, adding shape and movement. And the chart measures the bust, the sleeve and the length, and none of them is the hem. There is no hem circumference, no pleat count, no pleat depth, no pleat width and no measurement of the flounce. So the page names the element that defines the garment and then measures three elements that do not. It is worth then turning to the composition, because this garment does the same good thing as the other Sea New York garment in this batch. There are two panels: Self at 70% polyester and 30% viscose, and Lining at 100% cotton. The lining is declared, separately, which this run has asked for repeatedly. And the self, which is what a customer sees and what takes the wear, is seventy per cent polyester. The description calls it a black twill, which is a weave and is correctly named, and does not mention polyester at all. The reference is the Angelina Suiting Jacket. Dongguan Bafinasa Garments Co., Ltd. develops comparable tailored outerwear on OEM and ODM terms, from cloth and lining sourcing to retail or FBA ready packing. We publish this as a development reference and build your own version of it, and we do not supply the branded original or reproduce anyone else's label.

Key Features

• Three columns all grading at exactly 2 cm, which is the most uniform chart this run has read. See the note below
• Defined by its hem as stated, and no hem circumference, no pleat count, no pleat depth and no flounce measurement. See the note below
• Two composition panels: the self at 70% polyester and 30% viscose, and the lining separately at 100% cotton. See the note below
• Black twill as named, so the weave is stated, with no cloth weight given. See the note below
• Cropped silhouette as stated, at 48 to 54 cm. See the note below
• A bust column identical to this brand's embroidered top in this same batch, giving under an inch of ease at an L. See the note below
• One photograph, on the most expensive garment in this run. See the note below

Customisable Options

• Cloth: a polyester and viscose twill to the reference at 70 and 30, with the weight in grams per square metre stated, or a wool rich suiting, or a viscose and linen twill, or a recycled polyester twill, or a cotton twill, each quoted separately
• Lining: a cotton lining to the reference, with the weight stated and the fibre declared separately, or a cupro lining, or a viscose lining, or a half lining, or an unlined body with bound seams, each quoted separately
• Hem: a pleated hem falling to a soft flounce to the reference, with the pleat count, depth and width and the hem circumference stated, or a plain hem, or a gathered hem, or a flared hem, or a slit hem, each quoted separately
• Neck: a round collarless neckline to the reference, with the depth and the width stated, or a notch collar, or a shawl collar, or a stand collar, or a V neck, each quoted separately
• Closure: a button-down front to the reference, with the button count, size and material stated, or a concealed placket, or a single button, or a zip front, each quoted separately
• Length: a cropped silhouette to the reference, with a model height given, or a hip length, or a longline, each quoted separately
• Cloth and lining weights, hem circumference, pleat count, depth and width, neckline depth and width, button count, size and material, shoulder width, sleeve measurement origin and cuff circumference, chest pocket dimensions, shrinkage figures, size set, colour development, private label and care labelling

Specifications

Size Chart as Published by the Reference

The pit to pit figures are flat half measures taken with the jacket laid down, doubling to 92, 96, 100 and 104 cm around, or 36.22, 37.80, 39.37 and 40.94 in. Set against bodies of roughly 31, 34, 37 and 40 in across an XS to L, that is ease of about 5.2 in at the smallest size falling to about 0.9 in at the largest, on a jacket with no fit word published. The bust, the sleeve and the total length each step exactly 2 cm at every step, so all three columns grade cleanly and by the same amount.

Our Proposed Body Chart

Occasions and Styling

Suits autumn, spring, occasion and work. A cropped collarless jacket with a pleated hem works over a dress or with the matching culotte, and it stands in for a tailored jacket.

Production and Quality Control

The reference publishes three measurements for all four sizes with every column grading cleanly and by the same amount, states two separate composition panels covering the self and the lining, names the weave, says the lining is present, is honest that the chest pocket is decorative, gives a care instruction that is a real restriction, states the country of manufacture, lists the construction in a bullet list and names the style code. It gives no cloth weight, no hem circumference, no pleat count, depth or width, no flounce measurement, no neckline depth or width, no button count, size or material, no sleeve measurement origin or cuff circumference, no shoulder width, no shrinkage figure, no fit word, no fit statement, no size conversion and no model, and it carries one photograph. Three things follow: the hem the page says defines the garment and does not measure, the composition that is declared and then left out of the prose, and the single photograph on the most expensive garment in this run.

Defined by its hem, and that is the first thing, and those five words are the whole problem with this page. The description says it plainly: it is defined by its hem, where a band of pleats falls to create a soft flounce, adding shape and movement. So the page tells a customer, in as many words, which part of the garment matters. And then it measures three things and none of them is that part. The pit to pit, the sleeve and the total length are all published, and there is no hem circumference, no pleat count, no pleat depth, no pleat width and no measurement of the flounce. It is worth saying that this is not an oversight in the ordinary sense, because the page has named the element and then measured around it. And it is worth noting what the hem measurement would have told a customer, because it is the one thing the description promises. A band of pleats that falls to a flounce changes the circumference of the jacket at its widest point, and that circumference is what makes the jacket swing when a person walks. Movement is the word the description uses, and circumference is the number that produces it, and the page has the word and not the number. It is worth setting this beside the rest of the run, because this run has now met this shape of omission enough times to call it a rule rather than a coincidence. A dress named after its godet panels with no godet dimensions. A top named after its embroidery with no stitch count. A knit named after its stripe with no stripe width. A sweatshirt named after its graphic with no graphic size. And now a jacket that says in plain language what defines it, and measures nothing about it. It is worth adding the two other things missing from this jacket that a tailor would ask first. There is no button count and no button material, and the page says button fastenings and button-down front twice, so the fastening is clearly part of the design. And there is no shoulder width, on a jacket, where the shoulder is where a jacket either fits or does not. It is worth being fair that the page does two things well here. It says the chest pocket is decorative, which is more honest than most, because a customer who tries to use it will not be surprised. And it names the weave: black twill. That is a real specification, and this run reads a great many pages that never name a weave at all.

Seventy, and that is the second thing, and it is worth setting beside the panels, because the panels are the good part and the prose is not. The page reads Self: 70% polyester, 30% viscose, and then, on its own line, Lining: 100% cotton. This run has spent most of its length chasing undeclared linings, and here is a lining declared in its own line, with its own fibre. It is worth noting the shape of it, because it is the reverse of what a customer might expect. The cloth against the skin is cotton, which is the right choice. The cloth on the outside, which is what takes the wear and what everybody sees, is seventy per cent polyester. It is worth then reading the description, which says the jacket is crafted from a black twill and offers nothing further about what the twill is made of. So the page carries two accounts of this garment again, and the one a customer reads first leaves out the synthetic. It is worth saying that this is the second Sea New York garment in this batch to do exactly this, which is what makes it a pattern rather than an accident. The other is an embroidered top whose description calls it a breathable cotton and linen mix and whose embroidery panel says one hundred per cent polyester throughout. Same brand, same batch, same structure: the panels are exemplary and the prose lags its own panels. It is worth being clear about how unusual the panels are, because this run has the comparison. Two batches ago it published two garments in one batch that each had a secondary material and no line for it. Here are two garments in one batch that each have a secondary material and a line for it. So it is done, and it is done by this brand, and the rest of the industry has no excuse. It is worth closing on the care label, which is dry clean only, and which is one clause, and which is here justified by the garment: a pleated hem on a twill with a cotton lining will not survive a wash. What is missing is any note about the pleats specifically, because pleats are the thing that dry cleaning preserves and the thing that has to be pressed back, and the label says nothing about pressing them. It also says nothing about shrinkage, and a viscose blend with a cotton lining has two cloths that may move differently.

One, and that is the third thing, and it is worth saying what it sits next to. This jacket is listed at five hundred and forty pounds, which is the highest price this run has recorded, and it carries one photograph. This run published a thirty two pound tee two batches ago with six photographs, and an eighty five pound dress with six, of which one was of a different product. So the most expensive garment in this run has the fewest images, and it is worth being precise about why that matters more here than it would elsewhere. The description says the hem is what defines this jacket and that the pleats add shape and movement. Movement is not visible in a single still image. Neither is a flounce, which is a three dimensional thing, nor a pleated hem, which is a hem whose whole point is that it stands away from the body. So the one part of this garment the page says matters is the one part a single photograph cannot show. There is no model either, so there is no way to see the hem on a body or to judge where the cropped length falls. It is worth then turning to the length word itself, because it is the one claim on this page this run can test, and it passes. Cropped silhouette, at 48 to 54 centimetres. This run has recorded cropped at 46 and at 44 to 47, so 48 to 54 is at the upper edge of the band and still cropped, and it grades cleanly by two centimetres a size. It is worth noting that two centimetres per size on a length is generous, and that this is the same jacket whose bust cannot keep up with a body. That is the whole chart in one observation: the same two centimetres is too much for the length and too little for the bust, because the three dimensions do not grow at the same rate. It is worth closing on the stock, because it is the last thing a customer meets. One of four sizes. The XS and the L, which are the two sizes where the ease question is most acute, are both gone. Every bulk shipment gets a measurement report against your approved chart.

Optional upgrades include measuring and publishing the hem circumference and the pleat count, depth and width, quoting the cloth and lining weights, grading the bust to hold the ease at the largest size on a jacket, giving the neckline depth and width, the button count, size and material, the shoulder width and the sleeve measurement origin and cuff circumference, adding pressing and shrinkage guidance to the label, publishing a fit word, a fit statement, a model height and a size conversion, wool rich, viscose and linen, recycled polyester and cotton twills, cupro, viscose, half and unlined options, plain, gathered, flared and slit hems, notch, shawl, stand and V necklines, concealed placket, single button and zip fronts, hip and longline lengths, size set, colour development, private label, hangtag and care labelling.

Pre-production sample approval, in-line inspection during cutting and sewing, and a final AQL inspection before packing, with measurement reports and photos shared before shipment.

Send us your tech pack, a photo or a reference garment and we will quote within 24 hours. Contact bafinasa@bafinasa.com or WhatsApp +86 13827222469.