
The 90s French High Rise Straight from Citizens of Humanity in the Pastis wash, a clear medium indigo with soft fading and subtle whiskering, made from rigid regenerative cotton with eco-indigo dyeing and a soft hand, listed at 340 GBP with all eight sizes in stock. It is worth beginning with something this run has not been able to say before, because it changes how firmly the run's central finding can be stated. The sizes here are 24 through 31, which are nominal waist inches, so unlike every other garment in this run the page supplies its own body scale: one inch per size. And the waist measurements run 34, 36, 38 and on up to 48 centimetres, a grade of two centimetres at every step. Two centimetres of flat measure is four centimetres around, which is about 1.57 inches, but the labels step by one inch. So the garment grows about half an inch faster per size than the labels say it does, and across seven steps that is about four inches of disagreement between what the label promises and what the tape measure delivers. It is worth saying why that matters beyond this pair of jeans. For its whole length this run has set garments against a body chart it had to assume, and a reasonable objection is that the finding is an artefact of those assumed numbers. Here there is nothing to assume. The page states the scale in the size labels and then contradicts it in the measurements. It is worth then turning to the inseam and the total length, which do not behave like the waist. The inseam is 75 centimetres for five sizes in a row and only then starts to grow, and the total length is frozen for three sizes. The reference is the 90s French High Rise Straight. Dongguan Bafinasa Garments Co., Ltd. develops comparable jeans on OEM and ODM terms, from denim and wash development to retail or FBA ready packing. We publish this as a development reference and build your own version of it, and we do not supply the branded original or reproduce anyone else's label.
Key Features
- Eight sizes from 24 to 31, where the size label states the body scale and the measurements then contradict it. See the note below
- A waist grading at 2 cm per size, against 1.27 cm needed for a one inch size step, so the ease grows by about 4 in across the range. See the note below
- An ease of about 2.8 in at a size 24 rising to about 6.8 in at a size 31, on a rigid non-stretch denim. See the note below
- Rigid, non-stretch denim as stated, which is the declaration that makes the ease figures readable. See the note below
- An inseam frozen at 75 cm for five sizes, then grading. See the note below
- Both the inseam and the total length published, so the rise can be worked out. See the note below
- 100% regenerative cotton with eco-indigo dyeing, with no weight, no certifier and no standard named. See the note below
Customisable Options
- Denim: a rigid regenerative cotton denim to the reference, with the weight in ounces and grams per square metre stated, or a conventional cotton rigid denim, or an organic cotton rigid denim, or a comfort stretch denim, or a recycled cotton blend, each quoted separately
- Dyeing: eco-indigo dyeing to the reference, with the standard and the certifier named, or conventional indigo, or a low-impact indigo, or a sulphur dye, or a black overdye, each quoted separately
- Wash: the Pastis wash to the reference, a clear medium indigo with soft fading and subtle whiskering, with the recipe and the number of cycles stated, or a light wash, or a dark wash, or a raw unwashed denim, or a stone wash, each quoted separately
- Rise: a high rise to the reference, with the rise measurement published, or a mid rise, or a low rise, or a super high rise, each quoted separately
- Leg: a straight leg to the reference, with the leg opening measured and published, or a wide leg, or a slim straight, or a tapered leg, each quoted separately
- Closure: a button closure to the reference, with the type of fly and the button count and size stated, or a zip fly with a shank button, or a full button fly, each quoted separately
- Cloth weight in ounces and grams, dye standard and certifier, wash recipe and cycle count, rise, leg opening, hip, thigh and knee measurements, button count and size, fly type, shrinkage figures, size set, colour development, private label and care labelling
Specifications
| Style | High rise straight leg jeans in rigid denim with a button closure |
| Reference | Citizens of Humanity, 90s French High Rise Straight, style 2317-3017, colour code pasti, sizes 24 to 31 |
| Composition | 100% regenerative cotton, as stated. See the note below |
| Cloth | Rigid denim as stated, with a soft hand as stated. See the note below |
| Cloth Weight | Not stated, in any form. See the note below |
| Weave | Not stated, though denim implies a twill |
| Handle | Soft as stated, with no weight and no finish given |
| Stretch | Rigid, non-stretch denim as stated in the bullets. See the note below |
| Dyeing | Eco-indigo dyeing as stated, with no standard and no certifier named. See the note below |
| Wash | The Pastis wash, a clear medium indigo with soft fading and subtle whiskering, as stated, with no recipe and no number of cycles given. See the note below |
| Fit Word | Straight leg and high rise as stated in the bullets. See the note below |
| Fit Statement | A timeless straight silhouette with a flattering high-rise fit and clean, elongated lines, as stated |
| Sizes Offered | 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30 and 31, eight sizes, all eight in stock at the time of writing |
| Size Conversion | None published beyond the nominal waist inch in the size label |
| Model | 5'10" and wearing a size 27, as stated. See the note below |
| Rise | High rise as stated in the bullets, with no rise measurement published. See the note below |
| Leg | Straight leg as stated in the bullets, with no leg opening measured and published. See the note below |
| Closure | Button closure as stated, with no fly type, no button count and no button size given. See the note below |
| Pockets | Not stated |
| Care | Machine wash cold. Tumble dry low, as stated. See the note below |
| Certification | None named. See the note below |
| Measurements Published | Waist, inseam and total length for all eight sizes. See the note below |
| Published Waist | 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46 and 48 cm, stepping exactly 2 cm at every step. See the note below |
| Waist Around | 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92 and 96 cm, or 26.77, 28.35, 29.92, 31.50, 33.07, 34.65, 36.22 and 37.80 in. See the note below |
| True Waist Grade | About 2 cm of flat measure per size, against about 1.27 cm needed for a one inch size step. See the note below |
| Ease at the Waist | About 2.8 in at a size 24 rising to about 6.8 in at a size 31, so about 4 in gained across the range. See the note below |
| Published Inseam | 75, 75, 75, 75, 75, 76, 77 and 78 cm, frozen for five sizes and then grading by 1 cm. See the note below |
| Published Total Length | 100, 100, 100, 101, 102, 103, 104 and 105 cm, frozen for three sizes and then grading by 1 cm. See the note below |
| Rise, Derived | About 25 to 27 cm, being the total length less the inseam, which the page never states. See the note below |
| Hip | Not measured |
| Thigh | Not measured |
| Knee | Not measured |
| Leg Opening | Not measured |
| Cloth Weight | Not stated |
| Photographs | Six |
| Production | Made in Turkey as stated, with no certification named |
| Reference Retail | 340 GBP as listed, quoted to show the price band this sits in, not as our price |
| Category | Filed by the reference under jeans |
| Occasion | Everyday, casual, work, weekend |
| MOQ | 100 pcs per style per colourway, mixed sizes and colourways accepted |
| Sampling | 7-10 days after tech pack or reference sample confirmation |
| Bulk Lead Time | 20-30 days after sample approval and deposit |
| Service | OEM / ODM / private label, rigid denim sourcing by weight in ounces and grams per square metre, indigo dyeing and wash development with the recipe set, high rise straight leg block development with the waist, hip, rise, inseam and leg opening all graded, retail or FBA ready packing |
Size Chart as Published by the Reference
| Size | Waist (cm) | Inseam (cm) | Total Length (cm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 24 | 34 cm | 75 cm | 100 cm |
| 25 | 36 cm | 75 cm | 100 cm |
| 26 | 38 cm | 75 cm | 100 cm |
| 27 | 40 cm | 75 cm | 101 cm |
| 28 | 42 cm | 75 cm | 102 cm |
| 29 | 44 cm | 76 cm | 103 cm |
| 30 | 46 cm | 77 cm | 104 cm |
| 31 | 48 cm | 78 cm | 105 cm |
The waist figures are flat half measures taken with the jeans laid down, doubling to 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92 and 96 cm around, or 26.77 to 37.80 in. Because the size labels are nominal waist inches, the page states its own scale of one inch per size, and against that scale the ease at the waist runs from about 2.8 in at a size 24 to about 6.8 in at a size 31. One inch of body waist needs about 1.27 cm of flat measure, and the jeans grade 2 cm, so the ease grows by about 4 in across eight sizes. The inseam is frozen at 75 cm for five sizes and then grades by 1 cm, and the total length is frozen at 100 cm for three sizes and then grades by 1 cm. Subtracting the inseam from the total length gives a rise of about 25 to 27 cm, which the page never states. Our proposal below grades the waist, the inseam and the total length evenly and publishes the rise directly, and we would quote a hip, a thigh, a knee and a leg opening separately.
Our Proposed Body Chart
| Size | Body Bust | Body Waist | Body Hips | Length | Source |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 24 | 31 in / 79 cm | 24 in / 61 cm | 34 in / 86 cm | 100 cm / 39.4 in | Our proposal |
| 25 | 32 in / 81 cm | 25 in / 64 cm | 35 in / 89 cm | 102 cm / 40.2 in | Our proposal |
| 26 | 33 in / 84 cm | 26 in / 66 cm | 36 in / 91 cm | 104 cm / 40.9 in | Our proposal |
| 27 | 34 in / 86 cm | 27 in / 69 cm | 37 in / 94 cm | 106 cm / 41.7 in | Our proposal |
| 28 | 35 in / 89 cm | 28 in / 71 cm | 38 in / 97 cm | 108 cm / 42.5 in | Our proposal |
| 29 | 36 in / 91 cm | 29 in / 74 cm | 39 in / 99 cm | 110 cm / 43.3 in | Our proposal |
| 30 | 37 in / 94 cm | 30 in / 76 cm | 40 in / 102 cm | 112 cm / 44.1 in | Our proposal |
| 31 | 38 in / 97 cm | 31 in / 79 cm | 41 in / 104 cm | 114 cm / 44.9 in | Our proposal |
Occasions and Styling
Suits everyday, casual and weekend wear. A high rise straight leg in rigid denim works with a knit or a shirt and holds its shape through the day.
Production and Quality Control
The reference publishes three measurements for all eight sizes, grades its waist perfectly, states that the denim is rigid and non-stretch, names its fibre with a farming claim, names its dyeing process, describes its wash in more words than any garment in this run, gives a fit word in the bullets, names the rise and the leg shape, names the closure, states its care in two clauses, gives a model with a height and a size, states the country of manufacture and gives both a style number and a colour code, and carries all eight sizes in stock with six photographs. It gives no cloth weight, no weave, no hip, no thigh, no knee, no leg opening, no rise measurement, no fly type, no button count or size, no pocket count, no wash recipe, no dye standard or certifier, no shrinkage figure, no size conversion and no certification. Three things follow: a chart that contradicts its own size labels, a wash described in prose and not specified, and a claim about the cloth with nothing behind it.
Two, and that is the first thing, and it is worth saying at the outset why this pair of jeans matters more than its numbers. Every other garment in this run had to be set against a body chart the run assumed, and the fair objection to the whole exercise is that the findings are an artefact of those assumptions. These jeans have no such problem. The sizes are 24 through 31, which are nominal waist inches, so the page states the scale itself: one inch from one size to the next. It is worth then doing the arithmetic, because it is short. One inch of body waist is 2.54 centimetres around, which is 1.27 centimetres of flat measure. The jeans grade two centimetres flat. Two is 57 per cent more than 1.27. So the garment grows about 1.57 inches of actual waist for every one inch the label promises, and over seven steps that is about four inches of disagreement between the label and the tape. It is worth then showing what that does, because it is the opposite of everything else in this run. The waist measures 68 to 96 centimetres around, or about 26.8 to 37.8 inches, against nominal waists of 24 to 31, so the ease runs from about 2.8 inches at a size 24 up to about 6.8 inches at a size 31. The ease grows by four inches. It is worth being explicit about how unusual that is. This run has measured perhaps forty garments and every one of them gave away ease as the sizes grew, because every one graded more slowly than the body. These grade faster. It is worth then asking whether 6.8 inches of ease at the waist is actually a problem, and here the page has already answered for us, which is the part worth crediting. The bullets say rigid, non-stretch denim. That single declaration is what makes the whole chart readable: there is no elastane to take up slack, so 6.8 inches at a size 31 waistband is 6.8 inches of slack, and it will gape. It is worth adding the second consequence, which is the one the run cares about. If the fit is set at the small end, where 2.8 inches is reasonable, then the large end is four inches looser than the designer intended. And if it is set at the large end, the small end is four inches tighter. Either way the same garment cannot fit both ends of its own range to the same standard.
Seventy five, five times, and that is the second thing, and it is worth setting the two length columns beside each other because they fail differently from the waist and differently from each other. The inseam runs 75, 75, 75, 75, 75, 76, 77 and 78 centimetres: frozen for five sizes, the whole of the smaller half of the range, and then grading one centimetre at a time for the last three. This run has recorded frozen blocks before, but never five in a row, and never the small end rather than the large one. The practical effect is that a size 24 and a size 28 have the same leg length, and a size 24 body and a size 28 body are not the same height. It is worth then taking the total length, which runs 100, 100, 100, 101, 102, 103, 104 and 105: frozen for three sizes and then grading one centimetre. So the waist grades perfectly at eight steps out of eight, the inseam freezes for five and the total length freezes for three. It is worth noting what this repeats, because the run has now seen it on two garments from different brands: the column a brand takes care of is the waist, and the columns it leaves to look after themselves are the lengths. It is worth then pointing out the one genuinely good thing on this chart, because it is rare and it is worth naming. Both the inseam and the total length are published, and the difference between them is the rise. So the rise can be worked out: it runs about 25, 25, 25, 26, 27, 27, 27 and 27 centimetres, which is about 10 to 10.6 inches. That is a genuinely high rise, so the fit word in the bullets checks out. It is worth being precise about why that is unusual and what it costs. The page never states the rise, so the only way to know that high rise means ten inches here is to subtract two published numbers from each other, which no customer is going to do. And the derived rise is itself irregular, stepping zero, zero, one, one, zero, zero and zero, so the two columns that were supposed to produce it were not built with each other in mind. It is worth closing on what is missing from a jeans chart, because the list is longer than for any other garment type in this run. There is no hip, no thigh, no knee and no leg opening. And the leg opening is the measurement that defines a straight leg: it is the difference between a straight leg and a slim straight and a wide leg, and it is not there. It is worth adding the closure, which is given as a button closure and nothing more. On a pair of jeans that could mean a button fly or a shank button over a zip, which are different garments to make and different garments to wear, and no button count or size is given either.
Regenerative, and that is the third thing, and it is worth giving the page its due first because it says more about its cloth than anything else in this run. The fibre is given as 100 per cent regenerative cotton, the dyeing as eco-indigo, the hand as soft, the body as rigid, and the wash as a clear medium indigo with soft fading and subtle whiskering. That is five statements about one cloth, and this run has read hundreds of pages that manage none of them. It is worth then saying what none of the five is, which is a specification. There is no weight. This is now the fifth batch running in which the cheaper garment specified its cloth better than the more expensive one: a pair of jeans at 105 pounds carried a bullet reading 100% Cotton 'Smith' Denim, 13.5 oz, and remains the only complete cloth specification this run has met, while this pair at 340 pounds and another garment from the same brand at 280 pounds both give prose and no figure. It is worth being careful about regenerative and eco-indigo, because they are the sort of claim that deserves scrutiny and gets none here. Regenerative is a farming claim and eco-indigo is a process claim. Neither names a standard and neither names a certifier. This run has now read its whole length without finding a single garment carrying a certification of any kind, and this is the most expensive one yet. It is worth setting that beside another brand in this run which states on its size tab that its viscose is certified, so the two positions are a brand with a certificate and no claim, and a brand with two claims and no certificate. It is worth then taking the wash, which is described at greater length than any other in this run and is still not specified. Soft fading and subtle whiskering are placements as much as intensities: where the whiskers sit, how far the fading runs, whether it is on the thigh or the seat. None of that is stated, and there is no recipe and no number of cycles. It is worth closing on the care label, which reads machine wash cold and tumble dry low. Cold is a word and not a temperature, and on a rigid denim at this price there is no shrinkage figure at all. Every bulk shipment gets a measurement report against your approved chart.
Optional upgrades include grading the waist at the 1.27 cm that matches the one inch size step, grading the inseam and the total length evenly from the smallest size, publishing the rise, the hip, the thigh, the knee and the leg opening directly, quoting the cloth weight in ounces and grams per square metre, naming the dye standard and the certifier, giving the wash recipe and the number of cycles, stating the fly type and the button count and size, adding a shrinkage figure and a wash temperature in degrees to the label, conventional, organic and recycled cotton rigid denims, comfort stretch denim, light, dark, raw and stone washes, mid, low and super high rises, wide, slim straight and tapered legs, zip fly and button fly options, size set, colour development, private label, hangtag and care labelling.
Pre-production sample approval, in-line inspection during cutting and sewing, and a final AQL inspection before packing, with measurement reports and photos shared before shipment.
Send us your tech pack, a photo or a reference garment and we will quote within 24 hours. Contact bafinasa@bafinasa.com or WhatsApp +86 13827222469.

