The Field Jacket in Navy from Universal Works, a design the house calls a modern classic, made from a wool blend fleece with one internal and three external pockets and finished with a five button closure, listed at 189 GBP and in stock in all five sizes. It is worth beginning with the chart, because it does something this run has never seen. It is worth then stating the sizes on offer, which are five, from small to extra extra large. It is worth then stating the columns in the chart, which are four. It is worth then stating what that means, which is that the largest size is sold with no figures at all. It is worth then stating what the run has been doing for a hundred batches, which is counting columns and reporting when there are more columns than sizes. It is worth then stating how many times it has found that, which is six or seven. It is worth then stating how many times it has found the opposite, which is none, until this garment. It is worth then stating what that says about the run's own check, which is that it was pointed one way. The reference is the Field Jacket. Dongguan Bafinasa Garments Co., Ltd. develops comparable outerwear on OEM and ODM terms, from fabric and trim development to retail or FBA ready packing. We publish this as a development reference and build your own version of it, and we do not supply the branded original or reproduce anyone else's label.
Key Features
- Fewer chart columns than sizes on offer: four against five, so the largest size has no figures. See the note below
- Every row is uniform, chest one inch, sleeve a half, length one inch. See the note below
- Eight inches of ease at every size, the third garment in the run to hold its fit. See the note below
- Dry clean only, the first dry clean instruction in the run, and three lines that contain one instruction. See the note below
- A wool blend named in the prose and specified in full underneath, so the two agree. See the note below
- The pocket counts differ between the prose and the bullets and both are right. See the note below
- An image upload stamp from two years before every other garment in the run. See the note below
Customisable Options
- Cloth: a wool blend fleece to the reference with every share stated and summing to one hundred, or a higher wool share with the micron count given, or a wool free option with the shares stated, each quoted separately. See the note below
- Fit: a fit that holds across the range with the half chest grade set to half the body grade and the ease level chosen separately, or a closer fit with the ease published for every size, each quoted separately. See the note below
- Chart: columns matched to the sizes on offer in both directions, so no column for a size that is not sold and no size without a column. See the note below
- Pockets: four pockets to the reference, one internal and three external, with the dimensions of each given and the internal one named in the bullets as well as the prose. See the note below
- Closure: a five button front to the reference with the button count and size stated, or a zip with the length given, each quoted separately
- Care: an order of preference for cleaning with the dry cleaning solvent code given, a drying method and not only a prohibition, and storage guidance
- Composition with every share stated and summing to one hundred and published as its own field, the fabric named in a visible place and not only in a buried tab, the micron count and a responsible wool standard named with its certifier and licence number, the fabric weight in grams per square metre, chest with the flat or round method stated, sleeve length with the sleeve type and measurement point stated, the back length with the measurement point stated, shoulder width, the collar height, the cuff opening, the pocket count and dimensions, the button count and size, an order of preference for cleaning with the dry cleaning solvent code as a letter, a drying method and not only a prohibition, storage guidance, shrinkage figures for both length and width, a pilling grade tested after a stated number of cycles, colour fastness to washing, rubbing and light, abrasion resistance tested and published, a stock line for every size, size set, colour development, private label and care labelling
Specifications
| Style | Field jacket in a wool blend fleece with a five button front, a simple collar, a patch chest pocket and two lower hip pockets |
| Reference | Universal Works, Field Jacket, colour Navy, sizes S to XXL |
| House | The third garment from this house in three batches, and the third shape of style number. See the note below |
| Unit | Inches, stated in every row label, and the centimetre test does not take on any row |
| Composition | 65% wool and 35% polyester, as stated |
| Composition Sum | One hundred, exactly |
| Prose Against Specification | They agree: the prose says wool blend and the specification names both fibres and their shares. See the note below |
| Overlap Class | Agree, and the run is now scoring three outcomes. See the note below |
| Blend Word | A word that admits a composite without naming it. See the note below |
| Micron Count | Not stated |
| Fabric Weight | Not stated, in any form |
| Fabric Name | Wool fleece, in a buried tab only, and nowhere in the headline copy. See the note below |
| Certification | None named, and no responsible wool standard named |
| Fit Word | Not stated, and the run should note the absence, as it did on the sibling |
| Sizes Offered | S, M, L, XL and XXL, five sizes, and all five in stock. See the note below |
| Chart Columns | Four, against five sizes on offer, so the largest size has no figures. See the note below |
| Column Missing | XXL, the largest size actually sold. See the note below |
| Size Conversion | Not stated, the sizes given as letters only |
| Model | Not given |
| Chest | Pit to pit 22.5, 23.5, 24.5 and 25.5 in, or 45 to 51 in around |
| Chest Grading | 1 in per size, three times, a perfect series |
| Ease at the Chest | About 8 in at every size, and the fit holds. See the note below |
| Ease Drift | Zero, and the formula gives zero |
| Ease Level | Eight inches, and the run should note that the level is a separate choice from the slope. See the note below |
| Waist | Not measured |
| Shoulder | Not measured |
| Sleeve | 19, 19.5, 20 and 20.5 in, and the steps are a uniform half inch |
| Sleeve Compared | The two siblings from this house have broken sleeve ladders, and this one is perfect. See the note below |
| Sleeve Row Label | Sleeve length, with no sleeve type and no measurement point stated |
| Total Length | 27, 28, 29 and 30 in, and the steps are a uniform one inch |
| Length Measurement Point | Not stated |
| Ladder Uniformity | Every row is uniform, the second garment in two batches with no broken row. See the note below |
| Grade Ratio | Chest 1, sleeve 0.5, length 1, so 2 to 1 to 2, and all three are clean |
| Collar | Simple, as stated, with no collar height given |
| Closure | Five button, as stated in the prose, and button front in the bullets, with no button size given. See the note below |
| Pockets | One internal and three external, as stated in the prose, and three in the bullets. See the note below |
| Cuffs | Simple, as stated, with no cuff opening given |
| Care | Do not machine wash, do not tumble dry, dry clean only, as stated |
| Care Lines | Three, and two of them are prohibitions, so there is one instruction. See the note below |
| Cleaning Method | Dry clean only, the first in this run. See the note below |
| Dry Cleaning Solvent | Not stated, and the run should note that the number that matters here is a letter. See the note below |
| Drying | A prohibition and not a method, so the run counts it as neither |
| Storage | Not stated |
| Bullet List | Five, and the fewest from this house, which has given seven twice. See the note below |
| Climate Word | Chilly English weather, which places the house by inference and not by declaration. See the note below |
| Measurements Published | Chest pit to pit, sleeve length and total length for four sizes against five on offer |
| Photographs | Three, file named 1, 3 and 2, so the order in the names is not the order on the page. See the note below |
| Image Stamp | Two years older than every other garment in the run. See the note below |
| Production | Made in Portugal as stated, the second garment from this house made there |
| Style Number | 00017 WOOL FLEECE, as stated, five digits and a fabric name, and the third shape from this house. See the note below |
| Reference Retail | 189 GBP as listed, quoted to show the price band this sits in, not as our price |
| Category | Filed by the reference under coats and jackets |
| Occasion | Everyday, workwear, commuting, autumn and winter |
| MOQ | 100 pcs per style per colourway, mixed sizes and colourways accepted |
| Sampling | 7-10 days after tech pack or reference sample confirmation |
| Bulk Lead Time | 20-30 days after sample approval and deposit |
| Service | OEM / DDM / private label, wool blend, wool fleece, boiled wool and melton development with every share stated and summing to one hundred and published as its own field and named in a visible place, the micron count and a responsible wool standard named with its certifier and licence number, the fabric weight in grams per square metre stated, field jacket, work jacket and overshirt development with the button count and size, collar height, cuff opening and the dimensions of every pocket published including internal ones, chest grading set to half the body grade if the fit is to hold across the range with the ease level chosen separately, chart columns matched to the sizes on offer in both directions, an order of preference for cleaning with the dry cleaning solvent code given as a letter, a drying method and not only a prohibition, storage guidance, shrinkage measured in both directions and published, a pilling grade tested after a stated number of cycles, colour fastness to washing, rubbing and light, abrasion resistance tested and published, a stock line for every size, size set, colour development, private label and care labelling, retail or FBA ready packing |
Size Chart as Published by the Reference
| Size | Chest Pit To Pit (inches) | Sleeve Length (inches) | Total Length (inches) |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 22.5 in | 19 in | 27 in |
| M | 23.5 in | 19.5 in | 28 in |
| L | 24.5 in | 20 in | 29 in |
| XL | 25.5 in | 20.5 in | 30 in |
The chest figures are flat half measures, doubling to 45, 47, 49 and 51 in around. Against men's bodies of roughly 37 to 43 in at the chest, the ease is about 8 in at every size and it does not move. Note why: the chest grades one inch and the body grades two, so twice one minus two is zero. Note what the run has now: three garments whose fit holds, and all three have a one inch chest grade, so the rule that the half chest grade should be half the body grade is three for three. Note the second thing, which matters more: the three held eases are 7, 8 and 9 inches, and they are all different. Note what that means, which is that the rule fixes the slope and not the level, and the level is a separate decision the maker still has to make. Note the rows, which are all uniform: chest one inch, sleeve a half inch, length one inch. Note the columns, which are four against five sizes on offer, so the extra extra large is sold with no figures. Our proposal below publishes the missing column, the micron count, the fabric weight, the measurement points, the internal pocket, and a drying method and storage guidance.
Our Proposed Body Chart
| Size | Body Bust | Sleeve | Body Waist | Body Hips | Length | Source |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| S | 37 in / 94 cm | 48 cm | 31 in / 79 cm | 37 in / 94 cm | 69 cm / 27.2 in | Our proposal |
| M | 39 in / 99 cm | 49 cm | 33 in / 84 cm | 39 in / 99 cm | 71 cm / 28 in | Our proposal |
| L | 41 in / 104 cm | 50 cm | 35 in / 89 cm | 41 in / 104 cm | 73 cm / 28.7 in | Our proposal |
| XL | 43 in / 109 cm | 51 cm | 37 in / 94 cm | 43 in / 109 cm | 75 cm / 29.5 in | Our proposal |
Occasions and Styling
Suits everyday wear, workwear, commuting and autumn and winter. A wool blend field jacket with a button front takes a shirt or a knit under it, and three external pockets plus an internal one carry what a coat needs to carry.
Production and Quality Control
The reference publishes three measurements for four sizes, states two fibres with every share and the shares sum to one hundred, names its fabric in a buried tab, describes its collar, closure, pockets and cuffs, gives a cleaning method and two prohibitions, names its country, carries five bullets and three photographs, and gives a style number. It gives no fit word, no micron count, no fabric weight, no responsible wool standard, no certifier, no shoulder width, no waist, no sleeve type, no sleeve or length measurement point, no collar height, no button size although it gives the count, no pocket dimensions, no cuff opening, no dry cleaning solvent code, no drying method and only a prohibition, no storage guidance, no second cleaning method, no model, no size conversion, no shrinkage figure, no pilling grade and no colour fastness figure, no statement of whether any figure is flat or round, and its chart has no column for the largest size it sells. Three things follow: the run's column check was pointed one way; the prose and the specification agree, which the run should now score; and the image stamp is a weaker instrument than the run has been treating it as.
Four against five, and that is the first thing, and it is worth saying what the run has been counting. It is worth then stating what it has been doing, which is comparing the number of columns in a chart with the number of sizes on offer, and it is worth then stating what it has found, over and over, which is more columns than sizes. It is worth then stating how many times, which is six or seven now, and it is worth then stating the conclusion it drew, which is that charts carry columns for sizes that are not sold. It is worth then stating what this garment has, which is five sizes on offer and four columns, and it is worth then stating what that means, which is the opposite defect: a size that is sold and has no figures. It is worth then stating which is worse, and it is worth then stating the answer, which is this one, because a redundant column is clutter and a missing column leaves a buyer with nothing. It is worth then stating what that says about the run, which is unflattering: it found what it was looking for, six or seven times, and stopped looking. It is worth then stating the correction, which is that the check must run in both directions every time. It is worth then stating the second thing this house shows, which is that the defect is not a house habit either: one garment from this house has five columns against four sizes, and this one has four against five. It is worth then stating what that makes it, which is per garment.
Eight, and that is the second thing, and it is worth saying what the run has now. It is worth then stating what it has, which is three garments whose ease does not move across the range, and it is worth then stating what all three have in common, which is a one inch chest grade. It is worth then stating the rule, which is that the half chest grade should be half the body grade, and it is worth then stating the score, which is three for three. It is worth then stating the second observation, which is more useful: the three held eases are seven, eight and nine inches. It is worth then stating what that means, which is that the rule fixes the slope and not the level. It is worth then stating why that matters to a maker, which is that holding a fit and choosing how loose it is are two decisions and not one. It is worth then stating the third thing, which is the care, and it is worth stating what the page gives: three lines, of which two are prohibitions. It is worth then stating what that leaves, which is one instruction, and it is worth then stating what it is, which is dry clean only, the first in this run. It is worth then stating what the run should now ask for on a dry clean garment, which is the solvent code, and it is worth then stating the small inversion, which is that the run has spent a hundred batches asking for temperatures as numbers and here the code that matters is a letter.
Optional upgrades include the shares published as their own field and named in a visible place, the micron count and a responsible wool standard named with its certifier and licence number, the fabric weight in grams per square metre, the shoulder width and waist, the sleeve type and measurement point, the length measurement point, the collar height, the button size, the dimensions of every pocket including the internal one, the cuff opening, a column for the largest size, the dry cleaning solvent code, a drying method and not only a prohibition, storage guidance, a size conversion, shrinkage figures for both length and width, a pilling grade tested after a stated number of cycles, colour fastness to washing, rubbing and light, abrasion resistance tested and published, higher wool and recycled polyester options with certification, boiled wool and melton options, further colourways, size set, private label and care labelling.
Pre-production sample approval, in-line inspection during cutting and sewing, and a final AQL inspection before packing, with measurement reports and photos shared before shipment.
Send us your tech pack, a photo or a reference garment and we will quote within 24 hours. Contact bafinasa@bafinasa.com or WhatsApp +86 13827222469.
