Slim Fit Viscose Wool Shirt - OEM

The Coraz shirt from Hartford in Grey, a slim fit long sleeve shirt with a visible button placket, a small collar, buttoned cuffs and a back yoke, listed at 155 GBP with four of five sizes in stock and the largest closed. It is worth beginning with the fit word, because this run has been testing them for batch after batch and has rarely found one that survives, and this one does. The first bullet says slim fit. The pit to pit runs 45, 47, 49, 51 and 53 centimetres, doubling to 90 to 106 centimetres around, or 35.4 to 41.7 inches. Against bodies of 31 to 39 inches the ease runs 4.4 inches at a size 1 down to 2.7 at a size 5. That is the smallest ease this run has measured on anything, and it declines by the same four tenths of an inch at every single step. Slim is the right word for it. It is worth then saying why that matters more than one garment, because it completes something. This run has now anchored four rungs of fit vocabulary to numbers: slim at about three to four and a half inches, relaxed at about eleven and a half, oversized at about seventeen, and very oversized at about twenty one. Until now the scale had no tight end. It does now. It is worth then turning to the other two columns, because here the garment does something this run has never seen before, and it is worth describing it precisely because the shape is new. The sleeve length runs 60, 60, 60, 61 and 63 centimetres. The total length runs 68, 68, 68, 69 and 70. Both columns hold still across the first three sizes and then move. So between a size 1 and a size 3 the chest grows by eight centimetres around and the sleeve and the body do not change by anything at all. It is worth then setting this beside the other Hartford shirt in this run, because the comparison is the sharpest the run has produced. Both shirts exist in sizes 1 to 5. At a size 1 one of them gives 4.4 inches of chest ease and the other gives 12.3. At a size 5 one gives 2.7 and the other gives 9.0. Same brand, same number on the label, roughly six to eight inches apart. The reference is the Coraz shirt. Dongguan Bafinasa Garments Co., Ltd. develops comparable shirts on OEM and ODM terms, from cloth development to retail or FBA ready packing. We publish this as a development reference and build your own version of it, and we do not supply the branded original or reproduce anyone else's label.

Key Features

• Slim fit as stated, and it holds, at 4.4 down to 2.7 in of ease, the smallest in this run. See the note below
• A chest grading a perfect 2 cm at every step across five sizes, the only Hartford garment this run has seen do that. See the note below
• Sleeve and total length both frozen across sizes 1, 2 and 3, the longest freeze in this run. See the note below
• 85% viscose with 15% wool as stated, and hand wash only, with the minority fibre setting the instruction. See the note below
• A visible button placket, buttoned cuffs, a classic collar and a back yoke, all named. See the note below
• Lightweight as stated, with no cloth weight, and a lovely drape with no drape figure. See the note below
• One photograph, the fewest in this run. See the note below

Customisable Options

• Cloth: an 85% viscose and 15% wool blend to the reference, with the weight in grams per square metre stated, or a higher wool content, or a viscose and cotton blend, or a Tencel lyocell and wool blend, or a cupro and wool blend, or a wool and silk blend, each quoted separately
• Handle: a lightweight drapey handle to the reference, with the weight in grams per square metre and the drape stated, or a heavier twill, or a brushed handle, or a crepe finish, each quoted separately
• Fit: a slim fit to the reference, with the chest, waist and hip all measured and graded, or a regular fit, or a relaxed fit, or an oversized fit, each quoted separately
• Collar: a small classic collar to the reference, with the collar height, the point length and the neck circumference stated, or a larger collar, or a spread collar, or a band collar, each quoted separately
• Placket: a visible button placket to the reference, with the placket width, the button count, the button size and the spacing stated, or a concealed placket, or a popover placket, or a snap placket, each quoted separately
• Yoke: a back yoke to the reference, with the yoke depth stated, or a split yoke, or a plain back with no yoke, each quoted separately
• Composition with every fibre stated, cloth weight in grams per square metre, chest, waist and hip measurements, neck circumference, collar height and point length, sleeve length with its measurement point, placket width, button count, size and spacing, yoke depth, shrinkage figures, size set, colour development, private label and care labelling

Specifications

Size Chart as Published by the Reference

The pit to pit figures are flat half measures taken with the shirt laid down, doubling to 90, 94, 98, 102 and 106 cm around, or 35.43 to 41.73 in. Against bodies of roughly 31 to 39 in, the ease at the chest runs 4.4, 4.0, 3.6, 3.2 and 2.7 in, falling by about 0.43 in at every step. The sleeve is published as 60 cm on sizes 1, 2 and 3 and the total length as 68 cm on the same three sizes, so both columns hold still across three sizes before moving; no uniform underlying series rounds to 60, 60, 60, 61, 63 or to 68, 68, 68, 69, 70, so these freezes are real and not an artefact of rounding. No waist, no hip, no neck circumference, no collar height and no yoke depth are published, and the sleeve carries no measurement point. Our proposal below grades all three columns evenly, publishes the waist and the hip, and holds the ease steady from end to end.

Our Proposed Body Chart

Occasions and Styling

Suits work, smart casual and everyday wear. A slim fit shirt in a drapey viscose and wool blend works tucked into trousers or under a knit, and the small collar keeps it neat under a jumper.

Production and Quality Control

The reference publishes three measurements for all five sizes, grades its chest perfectly at two centimetres across every step, publishes a size conversion from its numeric sizes to letter sizes, gives a two-fibre composition panel, names its placket, its cuffs, its collar and its yoke, states its country of manufacture and names the style number. It gives no cloth weight, no waist, no hip, no neck circumference, no collar height or point length, no placket width, no button count, size or spacing, no yoke depth, no measurement point for the sleeve, no shrinkage figure, no model and no size and fit statement, its sleeve and its total length both freeze across the first three sizes, its care label is two words, and it is shown in one photograph. Three things follow: the first tight fit word in this run and it holds, a freeze across three consecutive sizes that no rounding rule can explain away, and a care instruction set by fifteen per cent of the cloth.

Sixty, sixty, sixty, and that is the first thing, and the run's rule has to be stated before it is applied, because for once the rule can be gone past. The rule has been this: when a column repeats, look for fractions elsewhere on the page, and if there are none, the repeat cannot be separated from a rounded-away half. This page has none. Every figure on it is a whole centimetre. So on the rule alone, the run would have to say it cannot tell. It is worth then testing the numbers directly, because the test is available and the rule does not forbid it. Suppose the sleeve really does grow at some steady rate and the published figures are that series rounded to whole centimetres. A steady growth of half a centimetre would print as sixty, sixty one, sixty one, sixty two, sixty two, or thereabouts. A steady growth of three quarters would print as sixty, sixty one, sixty two, sixty two, sixty three. A steady growth of a quarter would print as sixty, sixty, sixty, sixty one, sixty one. None of these is sixty, sixty, sixty, sixty one, sixty three, and no steady rate produces that shape, because the shape has three identical figures and then two steps that grow. So the freeze is not rounding. The sleeve genuinely does not change between sizes one, two and three. It is worth then saying what that costs, and the cost is easier to see on the body than on the sleeve. Between a size one and a size three the chest grows by eight centimetres around, from ninety to ninety eight. In those same two size steps the sleeve grows by nothing and the body length grows by nothing. So a wearer who goes up two sizes gets a shirt eight centimetres wider and identical in every other dimension, and since people who are wider are on average taller, she needs the length and she does not get it. It is worth then adding the one thing that makes this worse than a slow grade, which is that the shirt is slim to begin with. At a size three the ease is three and a half inches, so the shirt is already close to the body, and a wearer who needs more room around cannot find it in the length or the sleeve either.

Hand wash only, and that is the second thing, and it is worth reading it against one number on the page: the shirt is eighty five per cent viscose and fifteen per cent wool. Viscose is the fibre that shrinks, and it is the majority here, and the label says hand wash only. It is worth then asking why, because the answer is the fifteen per cent. Wool is the fibre that felts, and it takes only a small proportion of it to move a whole garment from machine to hand washing. So the minority fibre is setting the instruction for the other eighty five per cent, and it is worth testing that against the same brand's other shirt in this run, because the test is clean. That one is fifty five per cent viscose and forty five per cent cotton, and it says machine wash at thirty degrees and do not tumble dry. Same brand, same majority fibre, opposite instruction, and the only difference is fifteen per cent wool against forty five per cent cotton. It is worth then running the whole batch through the same test, because the pattern holds further than expected. Of the six garments this run has now read across two batches, two contain wool: a jumper at one hundred per cent merino and this shirt at fifteen per cent. Both say hand wash, and both say only that, with no temperature and no drying instruction. The four that contain no wool all give a temperature. Six for six. So the care label on this source is not decided by price, and not by how delicate the garment is, and not by what it costs. It is decided by whether wool is present, and when wool is present the label stops at two words and the majority fibre goes unmentioned. It is worth then closing on the fit word, because this batch needed one that held and this is it. Slim fit, at four and a half inches of ease at the smallest and two and three quarter at the largest, is accurate, and it is the tightest garment this run has measured. It is worth noting which of this brand's fit words have survived and which have not, because the split is clean. Across three garments now, this brand has used true to size twice, in a way that tells a customer what to buy, and both times its own chart contradicted it. It has used slim fit once, in a way that only describes the cut, and that one holds. The words that fail are the ones telling you what to do.

Optional upgrades include grading the sleeve and the total length at rates that match real height growth instead of holding them still for three sizes, quoting the cloth weight in grams per square metre and the wool micron if a wool content is kept, publishing the waist, the hip, the neck circumference, the collar height and point length and the yoke depth, naming the measurement point for the sleeve, giving the placket width, the button count, size and spacing, adding a temperature, a drying instruction and a shrinkage figure to the label, higher wool content, viscose and cotton, Tencel lyocell and wool, cupro and wool and wool and silk, heavier twills, brushed handles and crepe finishes, regular, relaxed and oversized fits, larger, spread and band collars, concealed, popover and snap plackets, split and plain backs, size set, colour development, private label, hangtag and care labelling.

Pre-production sample approval, in-line inspection during cutting and sewing, and a final AQL inspection before packing, with measurement reports and photos shared before shipment.

Send us your tech pack, a photo or a reference garment and we will quote within 24 hours. Contact bafinasa@bafinasa.com or WhatsApp +86 13827222469.