Relaxed Viscose Cotton Check Shirt - OEM

The Cinema Shirt from Hartford in Brown, a relaxed take on the classic button up in a small brown check, listed at 165 GBP with four of five sizes in stock and size four closed. It is worth beginning with the chest, because this is the second Hartford shirt in this run and the two together settle something the last batch could only suggest. The pit to pit runs 55, 56, 57, 60 and 61 centimetres. The steps are one, one, three and one. That is a new shape for this run: every irregular grade it has met so far has either declined steadily, or stopped, or halved partway through and held, or fallen and then risen. This one runs flat, flat, and then jumps three centimetres, and then runs flat again. It is worth then working out what that jump does to the ease, because the answer is not what a broken grade usually produces. Doubled, the chest runs 110, 112, 114, 120 and 122 centimetres, or 43.3, 44.1, 44.9, 47.2 and 48.0 inches. Against bodies of 31 to 39 inches the ease runs 12.3, 11.1, 9.9, 10.2 and 9.0. It falls, falls, rises, and falls. The jump at sizes three to four is large enough to put back about half an inch of the ease that the two steps before it had taken away, and then the last step takes it away again. It is worth then turning to the fit claim, because this is where the page becomes the most interesting garment in the batch. The last bullet reads fits true to size, and in brackets, designed for a relaxed fit. The run has met true to size before, on another Hartford shirt, where eleven and a half inches of chest ease at the small end was called contradicted. Here the ease runs nine to twelve, which is the same order of looseness, and the page adds the word relaxed in brackets beside it. It is worth being precise about why that brackets matters: the page is putting two fit words on one garment, and at nine to twelve inches of ease only one of them can be right. The reference is the Cinema Shirt. Dongguan Bafinasa Garments Co., Ltd. develops comparable shirts on OEM and ODM terms, from cloth and check development to retail or FBA ready packing. We publish this as a development reference and build your own version of it, and we do not supply the branded original or reproduce anyone else's label.

Key Features

• A chest grade stepping 1, 1, 3 and 1 cm, the only broken grade in this run with a single outsized middle step. See the note below
• Ease at the chest falling, falling, rising, then falling again, non-monotonic across the range. See the note below
• Two fit words in one bullet, true to size and relaxed, at nine to twelve inches of ease. See the note below
• A length grading at exactly 0.5 cm per size, matching the other Hartford shirt in this run. See the note below
• A sleeve grading a clean 1 cm at every step, against 1 cm total on the other Hartford shirt. See the note below
• 55% viscose with 45% cotton as stated, with no shrinkage figure on a viscose-dominant cloth. See the note below
• Size four closed, being the size at which the three centimetre step falls. See the note below

Customisable Options

• Cloth: a 55% viscose and 45% cotton blend to the reference, with the weight in grams per square metre stated, or a higher cotton content, or a viscose and linen blend, or a Tencel lyocell blend, or a cotton rich poplin, or a brushed cotton, each quoted separately
• Check: a small brown check to the reference, with the check width, the spacing and the repeat stated, or a smaller check, or a larger check, or a yarn-dyed gingham, or a windowpane check, or a plain dyed cloth, each quoted separately
• Fit: a relaxed fit to the reference, with the chest and waist both measured and graded, or a regular fit, or an oversized fit, or a fitted shape with darts, each quoted separately
• Collar: a classic collar to the reference, with the collar height and the neck circumference stated, or a band collar, or a camp collar, or a spread collar, each quoted separately
• Sleeve: a long sleeve to the reference, with the sleeve length and its measurement point stated, or a three quarter sleeve, or a gathered cuff, each quoted separately
• Closure: a button down front to the reference, with the button count, size and spacing stated, or a concealed placket, or a popover placket, or a snap placket, each quoted separately
• Composition with every fibre stated, cloth weight, check width, spacing and repeat, chest, waist and hip measurements, neck circumference and collar height, sleeve length with its measurement point, button count, size and spacing, shrinkage figures, size set, colour development, private label and care labelling

Specifications

Size Chart as Published by the Reference

The pit to pit figures are flat half measures taken with the shirt laid down, doubling to 110, 112, 114, 120 and 122 cm around, or 43.31 to 48.03 in. Against bodies of roughly 31 to 39 in, the ease at the chest runs 12.3, 11.1, 9.9, 10.2 and 9.0 in, so it falls, falls, rises and falls. The rise comes from the chest step of 3 cm between sizes 3 and 4, which is larger than the 2.54 cm a size step needs, so the garment gets relatively looser at that one step and relatively tighter at every other. The sleeve grades a clean 1 cm at every step and the total length a clean 0.5 cm at every step, so the two columns that behave well grade at half and a quarter of the rate the chest needs. No waist, no hip, no neck circumference and no collar height are published, and the check carries no width, spacing or repeat. Our proposal below grades the chest evenly at 2 cm per size, publishes the sleeve and the length across the sizes, and holds the ease steady from end to end.

Our Proposed Body Chart

Occasions and Styling

Suits everyday wear, work and weekends. A relaxed check shirt in a soft viscose blend works open over a tee or buttoned with trousers, and reads as a cosy everyday piece rather than a formal one.

Production and Quality Control

The reference publishes three measurements for all five sizes, publishes a size conversion from its numeric sizes to letter sizes, grades its sleeve and its total length perfectly at every step, gives a two-fibre composition panel, states its care with a temperature and a drying instruction, names its country of manufacture and carries four photographs. It gives no cloth weight, no waist, no hip, no neck circumference, no collar height, no measurement point for the sleeve, no button count, size or spacing, no check width, spacing or repeat, no shrinkage figure and no model, its chest grade is broken, and the size at which the break falls is the one size out of stock. Three things follow: a chest grade with a single outsized middle step, two contradictory fit words printed in the same bullet, and a second Hartford shirt whose numbers disagree with the first in a way that isolates exactly one dimension as consistent.

One, one, three, one, and that is the first thing, and it is worth saying what shape it is, because this run has been collecting the shapes of badly graded columns for a long while and this is a new one. It has met grades that decline steadily, stepping three, two, one and one. It has met grades that stop. It has met a grade that halved exactly halfway through and held the new size, stepping four, four, two and two. Two batches ago it met a grade that fell and then rose, stepping four, two and three. What it has not met is a grade that runs flat, jumps once, and runs flat again. This one does that, and the jump is three centimetres against ones on either side, so the middle step is three times the size of the steps around it. It is worth then asking what the jump does, because the answer is not the usual one. Normally a broken grade produces ease that moves in one direction at a changing rate. Here it produces ease that changes direction. The ease runs twelve point three, eleven point one, nine point nine, ten point two and nine point zero. It falls by about one point two, falls by about one point two, rises by about a third, and falls by about one point two. So the garment is loosest at the smallest size, tightens steadily to a size three, gets slightly looser at a size four, and tightens again at a size five. It is worth then noting what sits at the size where the jump lands, because it is too neat to leave out. Size four is the only size out of stock. The one size whose measurement breaks the pattern is the one size nobody can buy, and so the anomaly is real on the chart and unreachable in the shop. It is worth then setting the two clean columns against the broken one, because together they say something about how this shirt was made. The sleeve grades one centimetre at every step and the length grades half a centimetre at every step. Both are perfect, and both are far too slow: a size step needs about two and a half centimetres of flat chest and about two to three centimetres of length. So the two columns this garment grades correctly it grades at the wrong rate, and the one column it grades at roughly the right rate it breaks in the middle.

True to size, in brackets, relaxed, and that is the second thing, and it is worth reading that bullet slowly because it is the first time this run has found two fit words printed together on one garment. The last bullet says fits true to size, and then in parentheses, designed for a relaxed fit. It is worth saying what the numbers are, so the two words can be tested. The chest ease runs twelve point three inches at a size one down to nine point zero at a size five. Nine inches of chest ease is a loose shirt. Twelve is a very loose one. Neither is true to size, and it is worth being careful about the standard being applied, because this run has now met true to size twice on the same brand. Two batches ago another Hartford shirt, the Chana, claimed fits true to size and published eleven and a half inches of ease falling to six and a half, and the run called it contradicted because a garment cannot be true to size at one end and not at the other. This shirt is looser than that one at every size. So the run can say what it could not say before: on this brand, true to size means nine to twelve inches of chest ease, and it means it consistently, on two garments in two batches. The word is not careless, it is calibrated, and it is calibrated wrong. It is worth then asking about the word in brackets, because that is the new part. Relaxed, at nine to twelve inches of ease, is defensible. So the page has printed one word that its own chart contradicts and one word that its own chart supports, in the same sentence, separated by a bracket. A buyer reads the sentence and takes whichever word they like, and the page is covered either way. It is worth then turning to the cloth, because there is a third thing and it is the one with consequences. The composition is fifty five per cent viscose and forty five per cent cotton, and viscose is the majority fibre and the one that shrinks. The care label says machine wash at thirty degrees and do not tumble dry, which is a temperature, a method and a drying instruction, and is better than most. What it does not give is a shrinkage figure, and on a cloth that is more than half viscose that is the number a factory needs, because viscose can move by several per cent in the first wash and the shirt is cut to a chest tolerance of half a centimetre. It is worth then closing on the brand comparison, because this batch is the first in which one brand appears twice and the result is sharper than either garment alone. Both Hartford shirts grade their length at exactly half a centimetre per size. That is a signature, and it is consistent, and it is too slow. But across the same five sizes one shirt grows its sleeve by one centimetre and this one by four, and one grows its chest by four centimetres flat and this one by six. So the brand holds its length block and varies everything else per style, which means a customer who knows their Hartford size from one shirt cannot carry it to the next.

Optional upgrades include grading the chest evenly at 2 cm per size so the ease holds from end to end, removing the three centimetre step at size four, grading the sleeve and the total length at rates that match real height growth, quoting the cloth weight in grams per square metre, giving the check width, the spacing and the repeat, publishing the waist, the hip, the neck circumference and the collar height, naming the measurement point for the sleeve, giving the button count, size and spacing, adding a shrinkage figure to the label, higher cotton content, viscose and linen, Tencel lyocell and cotton rich poplin, smaller, larger, gingham and windowpane checks and plain dyeing, band, camp and spread collars, three quarter sleeves and gathered cuffs, concealed, popover and snap plackets, regular, oversized and darted fits, size set, colour development, private label, hangtag and care labelling.

Pre-production sample approval, in-line inspection during cutting and sewing, and a final AQL inspection before packing, with measurement reports and photos shared before shipment.

Send us your tech pack, a photo or a reference garment and we will quote within 24 hours. Contact bafinasa@bafinasa.com or WhatsApp +86 13827222469.